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Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

I have 2 problems.

Have been trying to confirm the function of the in-tank fuel pump and the Amp draw on the main exterior fuel pump on my 1986 240 non turbo.

I do not hear the 1 second primimg sound that I think should occur when I turn the Key to position II.

I have tested the main pump by jumping fuse 4 and 6 and it works fine but shows no amp draw.

The in tank pump shows a 1.75 AMP draw when the car is running. I found that out by removing the #4 fuse and putting the meter leads across the # 4 fuse position.

My problem is I cannot hear the priming from the in-tank pump but it appears to be drawing the above mentioned 1.75 AMPs while the car is running. The starting is not difficult. Is the fuel pump relay bad since I don't hear the priming form the in-tank pump??

Also, when I try to use the meter to measure the draw on the main exterior fuel pump, I don't get any value. This was done at fuse # 6 for this 1986 240 with the fuse removed and the meter leads place on the 2 fuse holders metal ends. I know the pump works cause I can hear it when I jump fuses 4 and 6. My other question is does this jump at between 4 and 6 power both pumps? I'm wondering if the running sounds from the main pump can cover those from the smaller in tank pump?? Nevertheless, I still can not hear the in tank pump prime at key position II.
Thanks for any tips and suggestions.
Bill N. Hartford WI








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    Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

    "I do not hear the 1 second primimg sound that I think should occur when I turn the Key to position II."
    • This is normal. The LH 2.2 doesn't run the pumps till an "Ignition OK" signal is detected during cranking.

    "My other question is does this jump at between 4 and 6 power both pumps?"
    • Yes. The input to fuse 4 (left side) is where the Fuel relay voltage is applied. At that point, voltage goes thru fuse 4 to the tank pump — and also directly to the Main pump.

    If you remove fuse 4, and apply voltage to the hot (left) contact, only the Main pump will run. Conversely, voltage to the right side contact (fuse 4 removed) will run just the tank pump. Insert your meter between 6 and 4 left (fuse 4 removed) to read Main pump amps.

    Despite what the fuse label says, Fuse 6 has nothing to do with any pump on US cars. It is for the K-jetronic FI system still used in other markets. In the applications above, fuse 6 is just a convenient voltage source. The hot (left) side of any fuse 6 thru 10 would work as well. (These five fuses are always hot with Key off - or Key in your pocket.)
    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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      Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

      Dear Bruce,
      Thank you for your accurate and complete answer.I feel a lot better about the car and for my own edification, I will now measure the draw on the main pump as you now given me the info I need. My Bently Manual is at a friends home.

      Sincerely
      Bill Nelson 1986 240, 1990 240, 1993 940T








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    Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

    a piece of half-inch cpvc pipe a foot or two long fits in the filler intake hole. you can put your ear up to the end of it and hear the pump clearly.
    a similiar size in copper or a piece of cheap garden hose would also work.








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    Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

    a piece of half-inch cpvc pipe a foot or two long fits in the filler intake hole. you can put your ear up to the end of it ans hear the pump clearly.
    a similiar size in copper or a piece of cheap garden hose would also work.








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    Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

    My mechanic put the end of a large screwdriver against the fuel tank and the other end on his ear while the car was idling. If you can hear/feel the vibration of the in-tank pump, then it is working.








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    Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

    I don't think you have anything to worry about. The current draw for the in-tank pump sounds right, and it's usually pretty hard to hear unless you use a jumper to run it without anything else going. Usually the only way you can hear it is to put your ear to the filler while the car is running, and even then it's pretty quiet.

    Not sure why you're not getting current draw on the main pump, are you doing that with the car running?

    Whether or not the pump will "prime" in the II position seems a bit random -- if the car runs well, don't sweat it!

    --
    '81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K








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      Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

      That pump is not going to prime without an engine speed signal. They don't buzz the pumps until LH 2.4. I'll look at my schematics when I get in to the shop in the morning and see why you are not getting an amp reading on the main pump. Obviously the darn thing is working or the car would not start. Another down and dirty way to check that pre pump is to put the car up in the air and pull the feed line off of the back of the main pump and bump the key. Does fuel kind of roll out the end of the hose or does it barrel out like a race horse? It should be obvious we are looking for the race horse response here. I have seen pumps with a good amperage rating that were not delivering the goods or they had a torn hose and were spewing fuel everywhere but to the main pump.


      Mark








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        Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

        I had an intank pump from my '78 out of the tank and on the bench in a bucket of safety solvent.It pumped liquid like the "race horse" you spoke of. So I thought it was "good to go" and re-installed it, the car would still hesitate for just a split second when you first would go from a stop but only when tank level was below 1/4.So I removed it again and bench tested it again, this time I ran the pump for longer than 5 seconds and at about 30 seconds the flow would be down to a "trickle". Installed a new pump and all was well. My point is, just "bumping" the pump doesn't always prove the pump to be good.








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          Best test to confirm in-tank fuel pump?? 200 1986

          You are correct in that bumping the pump does not always prove the pump to be good, but it will 99% of the time and the extra work involved in setting the pre-pump up in a bucket of solvent does not warrant it. In all my years of wrenching on Volvos I have found it necessary to do it one time. The brand new AC pump I had just put in was no good. When set up in a bucket of fuel and run off of a battery it spewed as much or more fuel right out of the seams of the pump as it was pushing up the hose to the main pump. The method of bumping the pump and checking for flow worked good to diagnose the previous dead pre-pump. The brand new pump was airiating the fuel and you could hear/feel the air bubbles going through the feed line to the main pump. Problems like the one I had and the one you had are very few and far between but they do occur and when they do setting the unit up in a bucket of fuel or solvent is a very good way to diagnose it.

          Mark







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