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New here...Oil trap removal 200 1981

Hi all:

I'm new here...my girlfriend was just gifted a 1981 245DL wagon. It's a little rough but seems basically solid. I'm already excited about working on this car. I have some experience with auto maintenance, mostly Ford Mustangs and Nissans/Datsuns. This car seems straightforward, well-made, and there is a proliferance of great user communities like this one to help the newcomers out.

The car leaks oil - everywhere. I removed the flame trap and it and both of the hoses were plugged solid. In fact, the screen was the old-style metal one and its possible it's the original - or at least really, really old. I suspect the oil trap may be plugged and/or the o-ring disintegrated as well. At any rate, I have the intake and TB off for some cleaning and re-gasketing so I figure it will never be easier to check than now. So I thought...

With the K-Jet injection system, the fuel distribution block and hoses seem to be covering access to the oil trap. Do any of the more seasoned vets out there have any tips to make this job easier? Will the fuel apparatus need to be removed? Releiving the fuel pressure may be a problem as the intake is off right now...

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. I'm glad to be a part of this board.








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    New here...Oil trap removal 200 1981

    The oil trap is guaranteed to be screwed; get a replacement from fcpgroton. Don't bother with a flametrap; leave it out and let the engine breathe.

    Sorry I can't help with removal - my 81 has a carb :) I just reach down and unbolt the oil trap.

    The metal is excellent on these cars; most problems are wiring/electrical and they're simple to fix.

    --
    Stef -- 1981 245 B21A SU M46 323000km my volvo pages








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    New here...Oil trap removal 200 1981

    Test first to see if it's clogged. Here is good test of the PCV system. Do this with the engine off and cool. Get a two-foot length of 5/8 ID hose. (If you buy PCV hose, you can use it later, in conjunction with a three-inch section of 5/8 OD copper pipe from a plumbing store or building site, to relocate the flame trap if you want.) Pull the flame trap assembly off the breather box, and push the new hose over the nipple on the breather box. Take off the oil filler cap, and try to blow by mouth through the hose that you just connected to the breather box. With a new or super clean breather box, you'll be able to easily blow through it. The easier you can blow through it, the easier your crankcase will breathe. Your breath will come out the oil filler cap hole in the valve cover. This test just checks the breather box. Also, check all the hoses and fittings downstream (above) the breather box, and clean or replace any part that is sludged up or clogged. This includes the brass fitting in the manifold where the little hose connects.

    If it's clogged, I'd remove it for cleaning or replacement. When I did mine, I removed the intake manifold, and moved the fuel distributor unit toward the fender, but did not remove it. No fuel lines have to be disconnected. I also removed my starter and accessed stuff from underneath but I don't know if that was necessary. While you're in there, you might consider heater hoses, a wiring harness if it needs one, new silicone vacuum lines for sure, and a good cleaning of the electrical connections under the manifold. It wouldn't be a bad idea to give it new injector seals also, but that doesn't have to be part of the same job. And definitely relocate the flame trap. I relocated mine to the front edge of the intake where it is readily accessible. Actually, I'd drive the car a week or so before you dig in to determine whether the thermo time switch and gauge sender are working right. These are tough to replace with the manifold on. The K-Jet non-Turbos are cluttered under the manifold.
    --
    Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.








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      New here...Oil trap removal 200 1981

      Thanks for the great info. I will try testing the oil trap before I dig in. If I do have to replace it, does the fuel distributor unbolt to be moved?

      While I'm in there, I am going to replace all vacuum hoses as well as the electrical connection to one of the sensors under the manifold (not the one that looks to be the coolant temp sensor, but the other one). Thanks also for these tips as to what I should do while I have the manifold off.

      Right on as far as the area under the manifold being cluttered!








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        New here...Oil trap removal 200 1981

        If I remember correctly, the fuel distributor unit is mounted in rubber mounts that just have to be loosened to move the unit.

        Some other things about your car that might come in handy:

        If yours is a "California" car it will have an idle air control valve on top of the valve cover, a coolant temperature sensor under intake runner #1, and an electric throttle switch. These three parts are part of the CIS (Constant Idle Speed)system. A new wiring harness for this car will be #3515381.

        If yours is a non-California car, it will have an Aux Air Valve (Air Slide) on top of the valve cover, no coolant temp sensor, and no throttle switch. A new wiring harness for this car is #9139228.

        Both cars will have a thermo time switch under the #4 intake runner that controls the cold start injector.
        --
        Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.








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    New here...Oil trap removal 200 1981

    This forum is the only one you'll need though there are others. The advice here is outstanding. My oil trap is on top so I can't help you but shortly there will be someone who will. Guaranteed.
    --
    Simon 80 240 307k 18 years. 'White Lightning'







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