I followed the Green Book procedure!

When I did mine, I found that taking the manifold heat stove bottom section off gives the necessary view of the bottom nut for the stud at the bottom of the outer intake manifold. If you are using the crankshaft lock and cam alignment fixture, taking the starter out of the way is almost impossible unless the outer manifold come off first. (Can't get to the bolt holding the brace on the back of the starter.)

I checked the top of the block with a straight edge for flatness. A machine shop pressure checked the head for coolant leakage and vacuum tested the valves for seal. Then they took a skim cut at the gasket surface to assure that was flat. I used new head bolts!

Heating the cover and head to get the stripper for the old glue to do its job was a necessity.

Replace the gaskets and clean the oil trap while you are there.
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'96 965, 16' wheels, rear 18mm bar & Koni + 204HP cams at 125K. Had '85 745 Turbo Diesel for 200K.

The intake manifold on these engines is also held on by one bolt at the bottom of the mainfold 'ball' and it sure is unwieldy just to get off by itself.

DEWFPO
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1998 S90 071,245 and 1995 964 154,100

I take the manifold off and I usually seperate it at one side or the other on the 6 short rubber hoses. When I have the head off of the car I go ahead and remove the short little manifold and replace the gasket underneath before I go back together as this gasket is known for blowing apart. No I do not use new head bolts. I leave the cam gears attached to the cam shaft so I do not have to mess around with dialing the cams back into zero when I set it up. Otherwise it is a typical white engine head gasket.

Mark