well, I've found that my damned volvo has a blown headgasket.

B28F engine.

haven't done compression test to see which bloody head it is, but I'm going to do that soon.

I'm beginning to think this fecking '85 760GLE isn't worth the work anymore, I've had nothing but bloody problems with it since I bought it in January for the princely sum of 2400$CA, having my ears filled with the unfailing reliability of volvos, how they scoff at a quarter million miles. Mine's at 150,000km, and DEAD! It's been undriveable since febuary, and I'm about ready to throw it on the scrap heap and buy something more reliable.

now, what does it take to fix a blown headgasket on a 760gle? I'm dirt broke, and want to do this on the cheap, so as to avoid sinking thrice this car's value into it.

any suggestions/comments/death threats/etc appreciated.

thanks.

CCC

...just sincere condolences for getting stuck with one of the dreaded & inevitable B28 repair scenarios. I'd seriously consider a swap to a B230FT unless it can be repaired relatively inexpensively, and regrettably I doubt that'll happen - I've seen too many B28s come apart and $2000 later, reassembled, still not work right. B280s aren't nearly as bad but unfortunately are tarred with the same brush & most Volvo mechanics who've been burned by an attempted B28 overhaul won't touch any PRV. As a rule they're worth more for scrap aluminum than as a complete motor - if you've got the patience to pull the sensors, sleeves, dowels & anything else steel from it. It doesn't even make a decent anchor - not heavy enough! Best wishes to you, and I hope this episode hasn't poisoned your opinion of Volvos too much - you'll have trials & tribulations with any car, but in general with a Volvo they're easier to resolve yourself, and you'll stand a better chance of making it home without a tow truck when something goes amok. Still I know how frustrating it can be. I have yet to drive my 1990 780 (owned it since December, just waiting for the last of the parts to arrive now), a front wheel bearing seized on my 84 240 this morning, and my newly purchased 1990 740 died today on her maiden voyage. That was an easy fix though, just a bad crank sensor - five minutes to replace, fortunately I had a spare on hand.
Good luck!
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf

Man, this is too bad.

Are you considering going to Ed Schram? Dave Stevens (of this board) recommended him or Joe over at Swedish Motors (Burnaby). I've never dealt with either (a relatively new Volvo owner myself) but I know Dave has and can comment. In fact I might have already sent you some info ... ?

Maybe there's some shops in North Van so you don't need to drive as far?

I wonder if these folks could help in locating a shop: VCBC - Volvo Club of British Columbia Home Page
--
Norm Cook Vancouver BC; 1989 745T 204,000KM

I'm sorry for the dissapointing news. At the mileage you have on your vehicle, if you are seriously considering keeping the B28 alive, you would be well advised to replace the timing chains as well. The non-even firing cylinders are very taxing on the timing chains. I would not put the B27 or B28 into the same category of reliability as the rest of red-block engines or the B280.

If I was in your shoes, I would seriously consider swapping in a B230F from a 240 (the fuel injection is easier to swap than the 740), or upgrading your B28 to a B280 (which would require transplanting the fuel injection system as well). -or just getting a VERY reliable 4-cylinder equipped 240/740/940 of the '85-'95 vintage.

If you are serious about pulling the heads on your B28, you will need several special tools (which are not cheap, and best borrowed from your Volvo dealer). The timing chain sprockets must be held in place (and tension) while the head is removed. FYI, a set of timing chains will run about $750 for the chains/sprockets.

Sorry to hear about the engine issue.
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 255k miles.

I'm going to have the gasket replaced, and sell the old girl, decided to trade her for a turbo wagon.
better gas mileage, timing belt instead of chain, and several other factors are driving this decision. Anyone want a 150k kilometer 760GLE sedan with great paint, no rust, two small dents on the passenger side, and a perfect interior in black leather (drooping headliner) and premium sound? :P

the closest volvo dealer is a ferry ride away, and there's supposedly an independant guy who runs a repair shop that does nothing but volvos, and has been working on them for over 20 years. I think I'll yak at him about it and see what it'll cost to do my gasket.

I've always liked the 7x5s looks better than the 7x4s. I'd like to find a 760 turbo estate from the late 80s, I've heard good of them

thanks for the help, and any tips and tricks you may have, please keep them coming!

CCC

I found this on a delorean site (uses the same b28).

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cylinderhead/headremovereplace.html

It's tricky at best and you will need something to support the chain so that the tensioners do not ratchet out. And you have to be careful not to disturb the cylinder liners.

You sure you have a blown head gasket? I'm not sure anything is cheap on the PRV.
--
Carter

I'm pretty well positive I have one - billowing white clouds in exhaust, milky oil, overheat, and pressurized coolant that smells like combustion gases.

FCP groton has the gaskets for 20$ per side for the B28F, and I'm going to get a compression tester to figure out which side is janked, and replace the gasket.

I hope I can get this done, and sell the car, perhaps replace it with a 700 series turbo wagon, or something. I'm not sure I want another volvo, but once this car is fixed, out the door she goes.

CCC

I have only ever met two mechanics in my 17 years-a-brickin' who can successfully lift the head on a six banger and then get it working right again. May I suggest a conversion to turbo 4 (then you'll never ever want to get rid of it!). If it was just a sleeve leak i would tell you to dump in some Alumaseal so you could drive the hell out of it for 9 years like i did with my 265 wagon(s).

(edit) long block for the B28F is ~$2800 for just the motor, convert for wayyyy less.

--
80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

what would a turbo conversion cost?

I'm a penniless college student at the moment, and can't afford to shell out what I paid for the car for an engine swap.

if it's going to be exhorbinatly expensive, I'm thinking I'll sell the car as un-running, since it's got a perfect interior (exception - headliner) and near-perfect exterior (couple of dents on the pass. side), no rust, and is just a great car overall.

I like the look of the 7x5s better than the 7x4s, they seem to look cleaner, the 7x4s have a straight-down back window which makes them look like one of those old vinyl-roofed buicks (or other domestic)

I was also looking into buying a 78 242 or something like that, a brick that you can't crack.

any thoughts?

CCC

I would say your best bet is to buy a wrecked donor car and strip everything you need off that car to put it on yours. I have seen some really good deals on donor cars, and that way you can have the parts right there at hand.
--
80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)