Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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rivets for vent window latch 120-130

Trying to rivet various parts to my newly rechromed vent window frame. First up is the vent window latch; I'm not sure if pop rivets are gonna work, since even after the center pin has pulled the shank (?) back, it will still be sticking out enough to get in the way of the glass.

I have a round metal piece which will fit inside the frame, and I can smack the end of rivet to compact it a bit more, but doesn't look like it will be enough.

I believe the shank length of this rivet is 5/16", was the shortest I could find. Anybody try this repair before? Should I try another type of rivet? Any advice appreciated as usual.









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rivets for vent window latch 120-130

The problem with the pop rivet is that either end will be too bulky once installed. Even if you manage to shave a little off the end of the tube, I have a feeling that the other side will have a hard time sliding past the rubber when the vent wing is closed. In order for the pop rivet to remain tight, the "ball" end of the shank snaps off inside of the tube keeping the tension on both sides of the rivet. If you remove the "ball", the rivet will loosen up due to the fact that the wall of the tube is very thin and therefore not very strong.

The only solution that I can see as of now is to go to an old time hardware store or fastener warehouse and purchase some real solid rivets, not pop rivets. Aluminum rivets would work fine. To install them you will need to place the rivet in from the bottom side just as you have shown in your photo. Then place the face of the rivet against an anvil of some sort. The top of your vice would work. Then use a punch or a drift and a hammer to strike the protuding end of the rivet peening it down until it "mushrooms out and becomes flat enough to install on the glass. If you can't get it all the way flat, you could file or grind just a bit off until it clears the glass. It would probably be helpfull to have a second set of hands hold the part while you do the peening.

If you have a hard time finding the rivets, let me know the diameter of the hole and I will send you some.

Another option would be to JB Weld it into position. Once the glass was installed, it won't move around at all.

Chris








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rivets for vent window latch 120-130

Your local sheet metal shop ("tinner") may be able to help you.
Take the window frame with you.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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rivets for vent window latch 120-130

Seems to me that once the shank has expanded the tube, it and some of the tube could be removed. Or you could remove the shannk and some of the tube in advance and use a pair of pliers to mushroom what is left. The other alternative I can think of is that these are like the rivets that hold jeans etc together. That design has a much flatter profile, and if you go to a big fabric store/website you might find something appropriate.
--
Patrick, '68 220, '83 245, '92 Eurovan (work truck).








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rivets for vent window latch 120-130

Finished repair this morning, ended up going with aluminum pop rivet. First compressed it with pop rivet tool, then knocked out the ball in center of rivet. Finally, I used punch to flatten the end of rivet, it actually smacks down enough so there is no interference once glass is reinstalled. Didn't need to remove any metal from rivet (to shorten) after all, it compressed fine.

As far as rivet head is concerned, I compared my repair with another original untouched vent window assembly, and the rivet head does not stick out any more than the original, so there should be no problem with rivet head rubbing against anything.

On my spare practice frame/ latch, I tried bending and twisting and turning the latch in all sorts of directions to test the strength of the repair, it's solid. Once the glass is back in, I don't think I'll have to worry about anything loosening up for a looong time.








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rivets for vent window latch 120-130

Thanks for the ideas! A guy at the local hardware store also suggested removing the pin from midle and hacksawing a part of the tube to shorten it up. I'll figure out best way to proceed over the weekend.







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