Last night I went to start my 89 240DL and it wouldn't turn over. The battery is good, the starter is good, it has plenty of gas, but it just won't fire. I took out all the spark plugs to check them and took a look at the rotor and distributor cap. It was in need of some replacements, but when I put it back together it started right up. So this morning it wouldn't start again, so I replaced the plugs and cap and rotor, but it still won't start. Anybody have any advice?

I towed it to a neighborhood mechanic to have a look at it. He came by first and checked to make sure there was spark and checked all the fuses. He said he thinks it's the fuel pump and he's going to check it at his house in a couple of hours. He said there should be a noise of the fuel pump filling up or something when you turn the key, but it's not happening. I'm a bit worried though. Sounds like he's going to want to change the fuel pump, which looks like it runs for at least $200, but then in still may not work if it's just one of these relays, CPS or EPU. I don't know enough about volvo's to figure out if it's any of those other things and I'm not sure he does either. Is there any way to rule out the fuel pump before spending all the time and money to replace it? Can't really afford a professional mechanic at the moment.

If you've got more time, patience, gumption, and perseverance than money, the folks on this board will help you fix it yourself.

I've usually got a few of those things, but my wife is due in about a week so I'm a little low on time and patience right now and need to get this thing running. But I do agree, the people on this message board are extremely helpful.

Things have a way of piling up to hit you all at once. If you are taking your wife to a professional for delivery and depending on that 89 to get you there, you and she might be better served if you found an auto repair professional that inspires confidence. A true professional would not guess at parts like a fuel pump if there's no trouble getting the trouble to show itself. He could be wrong about expecting the fuel pump to come on with the key turn-- that behavior depends on model, year and even firmware revision, as well as time since last run.

But it sounds like you've already done the deal. If there is truly good consistent spark but no pumps running, the fuel injection relay is #1 suspect for intermittent running. The 25A fuse on the fender may look fine, but its holder and wiring are in the weather. Make sure your friend checks these things before ordering fuel pumps or ECUs.

Scott

You definitely DO want to verify that the pumps are okay by jumpering the fuses or the connection at the relay. I'm sorry I don't have that detail for your model but you should be able to find it by searching recent no-start posts here.

On edit: check this link. Bruce has posted a lot of good information here on this topic! You really do want to do the basic diagnosis before throwing parts at the car.

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'81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K

Yes, Bruce knows the wiring and troubleshooting of all the different fuel injection schemes. When he gets involved in a thread, we all learn something new. A jumper between fuse 6 and 4, in the manner Bruce details, will bypass two possibilities in this case: the fuel injection relay and the ECU's function to turn it on. This is a real time saver diagnostic.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

One guy jumps on the fuel pump relay first thing. Another the underhood fuse holder by the battery. Still another says check the CPS. All bona fide and common reasons for no-start-- but how do you rule them out?

Use the time honored way. Prove there is spark. Prove there is fuel. Pull a plug or two and use your nose and eyesight. Crank with a plug laying on the cam cover & observe. No spark, no fuel pumps. Probably the 25A fuse or the CPS.

Use the on board diagnostics. The little box gadget on the left shock tower. Use the 700/900 FAQs to learn how it works - 'tis the same as a 240.

Scott

Don't forget to check my favorite part..... The crank position sensor on the bellhousing.

And check the blade fuse next to the battery - clean connections, etc. - a notorious source of trouble.

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'81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K

Maybe it's just me and my own experience, but anytime my Volvo won't start I always check the fuel pump relay first. It can tell me if I have power to the fuel pump and also if I have a ignition signal to the coil. It's located over the front passengers knees, under the felt panel. If you hold it in your hand while cranking, you should feel it click when it powers up. If it does, it tells you that you have a (required) signal from the ignition. This mostly rules out any problem with the primary side (power to coil) of the ignition system. This is the same (negative) signal that causes the coil to fire and at the same time holds the relay closed and maintains power to the fuel pump. If it clicks, the fuel pumps should run and the coil should fire. Try this during a no start condition and post back.
steve

Thanks Steve. I think I found the switch you are talking about. It's white and is clipped to a larger black bosche gadget. When I turn the key (before even cranking) it does click. And then when I turn the key off and pull it out it clicks off again. I've also tried cleaning all the terminals and checked all the fuses as others had suggested and still no luck.

I'm not familiar with your model, but as I understand it, there are two relays, a system relay and the fuel pump relay. The first should click when you turn the key to II, but the pump relay should click when you start cranking. So you might want to jump the pump fuses to see if the car will run with the pumps going (with the fuel pump relay bypassed). Other likely culprit at this point is the crank position sensor, as mentioned. And finally, there's the ECU, which I believe has been a problem for that year in the way it grounds the fuel pump relat. You might want to do a search here with the number on your ECU to learn more.


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'81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K

Please check your fuses and wiring. Sudden stuff on a 240 is usually electrical.
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Stef -- 1981 245 B21A SU M46 323000km my volvo pages

i had somewhat of a similar problem. what would help temporarily was getting a jump from my dad. then i looked at the battery and the connection was loose so things weren't grounded right. took a wrench and tightened. haven't had a problem since. so check that.
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87 244, 235K and 87 245, 314K (RIP)---Woodstock, CT