The original engine in my 72 ES isn't tired, but its leaky. I've got a whole gasket set and intend on replacing everything including updated front and rear main seals. Also maybe (I stress maybe)I'll install an isky street cam i have lying around.

I'm wondering if it is necessary to pull the engine to do all this, or if it is possible to do everything with the engine still in the car.

I understand the rear main seal housing can be upgraded to a later 240 version, that's supposed to be more robust. May be worth looking into.

Check this out: http://www.v1800reg.org/pages/Did%20you%20know%2080to81.pdf

skip down to "REMOVING ENGINE.. DON'T"

All said, I pulled my engine with the help of a friend and a hoist. It didn't take as long as I had anticipated, but I think I'll try to leave it in the car next time.

Keep the stock cam as Phil said, unless you're going to build the whole motor. Don't just put in a hot cam, you may make your motor perform worse.
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'66 1800S

Whoever the feller is that wrote that article, in the words of Harry Calahan, "A man's got to know his limitations".
The engine can be out in two, installed in three hours, and you get to stand up like a man to do the work. What's not to like?

But in this case he needs to pull the trans too - to get at that rear seal. Dropping the crossmember too (while that does work - I replaced an oilpump with the motor in the car doing that before on my 145E) with the trans off leaves the motor unsopported on either end. I guess you could always pull the trans, replace the rear seal, replace the trans, then drop the crossmember to get at the oil pan, but that just sounds like (to me) more work than just pulling the engine. And it is so much nicer to work on engines out in the open, not cramped and jammed underneath a car.

Of course, if you don't have an engine hoist, I dunno. I used to pluck engines out with a cable hoist ('come-along') and a sturdy tree. Heh - a literal shade tree mechanic.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

Right John. I totally agree. Not pulling the engine in that case could result in more work, more work in an uncomfortable position. However, it's totally doable and to not have to pull and then re-align the hood, as well as the other issues involved (low garage roofs are unaccomodating to engine hoists), etc. might make the extra work worth it. It's a toss-up, maybe.
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'66 1800S

Youd *barely* do less work doing all that if you leave the oil pan on. If you plan on replacing the oil pan gasket, pull the motor.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

By the time you've pulled the tranny and bellhousing and clutch to access the rear mainseal, it really isn't that much more work to pull the whole engine, and that makes the reseal goe easier and better.

I recommend sticking with the stock D cam, which is what your D-jet injection is tuned to work with.

no worries about djet...its not going to be controlling the injection on this beast. Forgot to mention i've got all my parts and tables collected and I'm ready for megasquirt.

Many thanks for the input..i'll probably be pulling the engine from what I've read....does make sense if i'm going to be doing such a job. Plus there's a Rentals Unlimited up the road with some beastly engine lifts for rent. I just wonder if it will fit in the back of the wife's civic...the c70's seats don't fold.

Heh - MS is like some virus spreading throughout the old Vovo world. Half the OHC guys are either doing or planning it on TurboBricks, now there's a growing contingent here on BB too!

Mine is going on my PV some time this spring/summer to run the spark, then the fuel too over the winter once I get the parts. I unfortunately (for my wallet) can't use D-jet parts. I have an R-sport head without injector ports (late F head casting, just undrilled). And a D-Jet manifold won't fit in the narrow tapered PV engine compartment, so I'm going to use some DCOE style individual throttle bodies in place of the DCOE carbs on it now.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

Most of the stuff you CAN do without pulling the engine, but if you are doing that much work I agree that it makes sense just to yank it out. If you have a hoist and an engine stand then you will have everything right where you need it. You can update the seals on the tranny and clean the filter on the OD (if manual) and do all kinds of nice things to your drive train. The only reason I can think of to leave the engine in is if you don't have a hoist. Even then, they rent pretty cheap.

It is probably best to yank the engine, which is really not too big a job. Then you will have access to everything, and you can clean up the pan and check the clutch and so on. Your chiropractor may not be pleased, but your back will be.

Probably haven't worked seriously on a B20 since 1990 or so but your big hassle will be the camshaft. Yank the radiator out of the way and you should have enough room to pull it. Other wise you can do all of the rest of that stuff in the car. Always hated working on the front of a P1800. If you ever want to see a Volvo service department come to a complete grinding hault, park one of those old beasts in the service drive. People will start working in reverse, making work for themselves, just so they do not have to go up for a job so long as that thing is waiting to be dispatched.

Mark