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Hello everyone, had an engine cut out no restart situation recently wonder if anybody might have some thoughts. put a new coil in old one was leaking badly cleaned all the fuses and holders with a small wire brush checked all the connections and cleaned all that I could cleaned ground connections cleaned and regapped plugs and the car started right up.let idle in park for a bit then let idle in gear for a bit as well idle was a little lopy at first but as it warmed up it smoothed out. Then I went for a short ride it seemed ok for a while but then it started to run rough with a lot of clattering and lurching and then went no power then stop stalled out at an intersection, got it started and made it to the next intersection and it quit again and would not restart. luckily this time I was at the top of a hill and rolled it back into my driveway. Made an appt. next week to take it into the shop where my old mechanic is back after a health related hiatus and hope fully he can work his magic any responses as always are welcome and appreciated. You guys are great! Thanks DK
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Try checking the air mass meter. Disconnect the plug on the AMM and then try starting the engine. If it starts ok and idles well, the AMM is likely bad. This is not a cheap part but you can replace it easily yourself. There is information in the archives about setting the mixture adjustment on it. I just replaced the AMM in my son's '88 240 and it was the second '88 240 I've had to do this on.
I think the AMM runs about $170US for a Bosch rebuilt.
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posted by
someone claiming to be roller
on
Sun Apr 24 13:43 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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i had a similar set of sympthoms and they were caused by unreliable electrical connections in the "Ignition Power" +12 volts line: connectors get loose at random time and engine stops with agony, then while cranking they were shaked enough to make a good connection (for a random time period, again)...
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Hi roller,
Wonder if you could further explain "Ignition power + 12 volts line" a little further I'm not quite following you. Thanks DK
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posted by
someone claiming to be roller
on
Tue Apr 26 11:15 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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>Hi roller,
>Wonder if you could further explain "Ignition power + 12 volts line" a little further I'm not quite following you.
Yes, grant me with excuse to my automotive English (it's not my native language) :)
I'm talking about the line that supplies the power to the ignition components.
In details: i had to tighten the contacts in the "start key" assembly connector (under the dashboard), then the AMM(?) connector "+12 Batt." pin (a connector on that device that interrupts the current in the ignition coil. N.B.: talking about TZ28H ignition with Hall sensor) and the hall sensor 3-wire connector from the distributor. The latter was mostly a fault preventive action as i believe.
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posted by
someone claiming to be roller
on
Wed Apr 27 04:11 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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oops, AMM stands for Air Mass Meter (i'd made rather stupid mistake in the message above)
i was talking about the connectors to the commutator
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posted by
someone claiming to be Manolo
on
Sun Apr 24 03:52 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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In addition to the other posts, consider:
1) Used wrong part, or wired incorrectly, resulting in overheating of electrical component and failure. AutoZone sold me the wrong spark plugs for a Honda SUV once - it ran fine for about 5 minutes and then ran horribly until I discovered the problem.
2) Whatever overheated your original coil has cooked the new one as well. A failed ECU can cook a coil. I don't understand how, but I know it happens on BMWs.
In the old days, coils were meant to operate at 7-9 volts. If the ballast resistor was omitted, and they were operated for an extended period at 12 volts, they would cook. I don't know what voltage these new-fangled electronic ignition coils run.
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ever had anything done to the fuel system, such as, fuel pump replacement, relay, or the fuel filter? also, you may want to check the connections @ the ECU, as if the connector is loose, and full of crud, as mine was, it'll certainly make it run bad,and, possibly be the cause of the erratic behavior you've described.....also, poor grounds to the block, etc., will certainly create those kinds of problems, but you probably already know that. do you hear the fuel pumps runnin as normal, right before it quits, and on re-start?? if not, i'd go and check all the basics again, first,before i'd go and spend money @ the mechanic's... wish i could tell u more, but i'm still learnin about these cars, and these guys certainly helped me get ours back on the road one week after we bought it for my daughter, there are some very friendly , and knowledgeable folks on this board, so good luck, and let me know what you find, louis
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I had precisely the same symptoms with a failed ECU in my LH2.4 780, but since your car is, I assume, LH2.2 the first thing that comes to mind is a failing hall switch in the distributor. I'd check that first.
-Chris
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf
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cj mooney,
thanks how are you? is this a big $$ item and can an average DIY'er git er done?
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The switch itself is not expensive, I am pretty sure it's <$50. However it is tricky to install due to the fact that it's secured to the distributor with a peened rivet (ie the pin is beaten with a hammer to compress it & wedge it into place). The tricky part is doing it without cracking the new switch, but it can be done. There are a couple of alternatives: junkyard distributor, but you may face the job again in fairly short order, or a new distributor complete with the switch. Last time I checked, about $300. A mechanic friend of mine routinely replaces just the switches, takes him about half an hour IIRC. Plenty of other bits of good advice in the other posts, and the first thing I'd do in your position is grab a spare spark plug, and next time the car won't start pull off a plug wire & stick your spare in there. Ground the plug & crank the engine to see if you've got spark. If there is spark then you need to look at the fuel system, not the hall switch. If no spark, I'd stand by my first guess - hall switch. They do eventually fail, and often it's pretty obvious when you take the distributor out & look at the wires - in many cases it's worn insulation shorting it out. Please do bear in mind though that my advice here is anecdotal as I've never had an LH2.2 car myself. Don't buy that $300 distributor based solely on my say-so! Good luck!
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf
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