Howdy,

I replaced a very noisy and eventually non functioning starter with a new (rebuilt)one, which starts the car but is also very noisy (and gets hot) after ignition.

I assume that the starter pinion gear is not disengaging from the flywheel gear.

Before writing off and removing the 2nd starter, I am trouble shooting the electrical control of the starter.

From the green wiring book, I assume that the terminal lead (small blue-green wiring attaching to the solenoid via a clip connector) is what controls the advancing and retracting of the pinion gear.

I measured 0 volts here in key position I , and 12 volts in KP III as expected, but also 12 v in KP II.

Can anyone confirm if my findings are abnormal (the 12 v on the terminal lead in KP II) and suggest a cause?

Would the fault be at the ignition switch??

Any input welcomed.

Sounds like your ignition switch is bad but you disconnected the solenoid wire after starting and the sound didn't change??? That's puzzling unless the starters jammed again. Maybe check the pinion gear. You can remove the starter and connect it directly to the battery w/ some jumper cables. They give a pretty good kick though so be sure it's held steady. If it's a "lifetime guarantee" starter you can probably take it back.

Affirmative, this is abnormal. The basic setup is that the solenoid has the big permanently-live cable, a connection between the solenoid and the starter, and grounding through the casing and bolts. Then there's the little wire, which if it's hot activates the solenoid (just like a big relay). The solenoid has two functions: It connects the big live feed to the motor to make it spin. and it operates a lever that pushes the pinion gear into the starter gear (flywheel or flexplate).

Obviously the little wire should only be hot (12V) in position 3. You want the starter off and disengaged except when starting. I assume you measured the little wire while it was not attached to the solenoid, right?

Bram

Right. It was disconnected from the solenoid.

I actually thought that disconnecting the small (terminal lead) wire from the solenoid once the car was running would retract the pinion gear and stop the noise - but there was no difference. Not sure why.

So, what now? Any idea what the cause of the 12 v in KP II is and the solution?

Your ignition switch is likely defective. A lot of 700/900 models get sticky switches over time. They're not that hard to replace, though you might want a mirror so you can see up there. I think it will be two slotted-head screws to remove the electrical part of the switch from the back of the key lock cylinder.

You may find that just turning the key back a little will fix this, as well. Usually when this happens, the accessories don't all turn on. People report that the radio doesn't work, or the ABS light is stuck on, things like that. These are normally turned OFF in the Start position (KP III) but then revert to ON in KP II. If the switch is sticky, it doesn't return fully to KP II. That's what it sounds like to me. You'll probably be pleasantly surprised that the switch is not very expensive either.

See your dealer or one of the Brickboard parts suppliers. Good luck with it!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!