So right now I have the stock brake setup on my 91 240. Front vented, rear solid. I have the 15" 10 spoke 760T wheels. What all can I do? 12" rotors? Porsche calipers? How about calipers off an S40?

I understand that adaptors maybe needed, they may even need to be fabricated, but I can handle that.

also, do I have ABS or not? How do I tell?
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85 240DL 189k; 91 240 169k

A few ways to tell if you have ABS: 1) turn the key 'on', not running - is there an ABS light on the dash? 2) is there a wire leading to a sensor at the hub? if so it's ABS. 3) bloody big chunk of aluminum, & brake line plumbing into & out of it like an octopus (but not the master cylinder) under the hood would be the ABS modulator. 4) Find a dirt road & stomp on the brakes at about 40. Thumping & grinding & pulsing through the pedal means you've got ABS. Skidding means either you don't or it's not working.
-Chris

The S60R setup is extremely HOT looking and damn sweet in performance. Some of the guys on turbobricks are running the S60 kit on their 240s. However, you need to spend a chunck for the calipers, rotors, and adapter plates as well as upgrade to 17" rims. I think the costs excluding rims ofcourse were around $1k or so. Honestly, the 240 has a really good braking system. Here's my setup and I'm extremely pleased and can notice a performance increase in stopping distances. ATE grooved Powerdisks all four corners (vented front, solid rear); Stainless lines; PBR/Axxis Metal Masters; Superblue DOT-4 fluid. Zero noise, no brake dust, no shimmies, no alignment problems, no brake dive, hard/solid brake pedal = one happy guy!!
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'92 244GL silver-metallic, 152k, Enem V15 cam, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower and Cherry-Turbo strut braces, 240 OEM rear wing, 15' Dracos, SS lines, E-codes w/side repeaters, Euro cowl covers paint-matched, Magnaflow 2.5' SS exhaust, Unitek header

I like your setup. I think I am going to copy it. I like my stock brakes, but having driven some newer sportier cars I know what brakes can be. I'm just trying to get a better feel from my brakes. A car that can stop on a dime if i need it to.
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85 240DL 189k; 91 240 169k

By all means! I live in the city of Boston and the traffic can be horrific. There are many times when I've been cut off and had to slam the brake pedal...brick stops wonderfully. Stuck in stop and go traffic you never hear squeaks/or other noises due to the pads/rotors heating up too quickly and I'm surprised by the lack of brake dust. Granted, with larger rotors and larger calipers the system will be able to stop on a dime but I guess without a major overhaul I'm rather pleased with the setup thus far...and I have noticed a significant improvement from "stock" minus the rust forming on the rotors...so it goes. I guess you could look into cadmium-coated rotors but it's the nature of the beast. My buddy and I did the whole job one afternoon this past October.
I sourced the pads and front rotors from FCP Groton and the stainess ABS lines and rear powerdisks from IPD. I believe the whole job including accessories ran to about $330 bills or so plus a 6-pack of brew. On a side...if you haven't also think about upgrading sway bars and shocks as they are all part of the equation!

Best,
Adam
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'92 244GL silver-metallic, 152k, Enem V15 cam, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower and Cherry-Turbo strut braces, 240 OEM rear wing, 15' Dracos, SS lines, E-codes w/side repeaters, Euro cowl covers paint-matched, Magnaflow 2.5' SS exhaust, Unitek header

The setup you have now is probably optimal for your 15" wheels. There has been lots of discussion about slotted vs. cross drilled rotors as well as different pads. Personally, for stock brakes I prefer oem Volvo pads. They are smooth, effective and quiet although they do create a fair amount of brake dust. We used them exclusively on our 240 ProRally car and never had a problem
However, if you want the ultimate in street and track brake performance, check out the S60R upgrade that was worked out by Dave Barton. I followed his directions and the performance is awesome. 17" wheels are required but that's ok. IMHO, anything in between would be a lot of work for minimal return.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood

So the best option, without having to go to the S60R stuff is just to go with stainless lines and stick with what I have?

I have seen some people selling 12" rotors with an adaptor so I use the same caliper, I just have more mechanical advantage with a larger rotor.
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85 240DL 189k; 91 240 169k

The SS lines are a good move as is an annual flush with a DOT 4 fluid. The current thinking is that slotted rotors are better than cross drilled. The point of larger rotors is the ability to absorb the heat of braking which is why vented are better than solid. If you can lock the brakes, you don't need more mechanical advantage. Both slots and holes help disperse the gasses and heat of braking. I still believe that oem pads are best for average use. If you tow a heavy trailer in the Rockies or enjoy canyon carving late at night, maybe ceramic or metalics are right for you.

Skip

The best street option I have found so far is: stainless lines, Tarox - the only manufacturer besides Eurosport Tuning that manufactures slotted-crossdrilled disks , namely the Sport Japan model -or G88( for those who don't like cross-drilled disks and prefer just slotted) disks (stock size) and PBR/Axxis Ceramic or Metal Master pads (ceramic pads have a little more adherence but wear more easily).
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1991 Volvo 245; 1979 Volvo 244