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I do not recall what the number is off of the top of my head but let me tell you there never was a template for that operation. You simply assembled the rack on the floor of your stall, threw it up on the top of the car, centered it left to right (using your fingers as a guage), set the distance in the rear to the number in the instructions, used an automatic center punch to mark the hole locations, pulled the rack off the roof, drilled the holes with a 1/2" unibit, painted the holes with touch up paint to seal them, laid out the well nuts and rubber gaskets, set the rack back on the roof, gently screwed the rack down so as not to push a well nut through the holes, tightened down the screws for the cross straps, and called it a done deal.
All in all about 20 minutes work if you were sure of yourself and had no aversions to drilling fat holes in the roof of a brand new car. I like the factory original Volvo stuff and have racks on a couple of my kids cars but I do have to agree that there are advantages to going the other route, most of which have already been stated in other posts. If you live somewhere that gets real weather, unlike So. Cal, I would really have to recommend not drilling holes in the roof of the car.
Now if no one can come up with a number for you on the rear then I recommend, being as it is a 240 wagon with the elastic style of headliner, that you just pop the headliner back in the rear and see for yourself. So long as the tail gate does not hit the rack when you raise it and it does not interfere with the hinges, wiring or any structural reinforcements back there you will be fine. In fact even using the factory numbers every now and then you would drill all of the holes only to find the rear two had some kind of structural B.S. that stuck out just a little bit. The solution here was to take a hammer and punch and "massage" it back out of the way.
Mark
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