1)
Cooling System is sealed, with a vent for excessive pressure.
When not leaking, expect a bit of hiss when you open the reservoir cap.
If no hiss, you're losing pressure. That would be a problem.
2)
240's after '85 or so are prone to a bad circuit board in the instrument cluster.
Consequence of failed circuit board is that temp gauge needle reads incorrectly and erratically.
In some cases, it goes high in response to headlights being on,
however in many cases it just becomes erratic and unreliable.
Temperature Compensator Board goes bad.
Can be replaced.
If replaced, will often go bad soon. Been there, done that.
Solution: Remove temp compensator board and bypass.
ipdusa.com sells a small kit to do this.
Or for less cost, do a search here on "bypass compensator".
Also you can go to ipd's web site and find the instructions for their kit, as a .pdf file. It's quite helpful.
I've done the job twice.
It requires a jumper connection across two pins.
Both times, I used a small piece of lamp cord, about 2 inches long.
(single wire only)
Cut the wire ends straight through the insulator and the conductor,
without leaving the usual bare wire protrusion.
Poke a sharp tool into end of cut wire to leave a thin deep recess that you can slip over the previously mentioned pins.
That's your connection.
No soldering, no special connector terminals, etc.
Structure of the reassembled instrument cluster keeps the wire from slipping off.
So far, I have about 26K miles on the first car I did it on, since the bypass.
Still working fine.
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