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Fuel Pump/Electronic Injection Mystery 200 1989

The saga continues. Recap: 1989 200 wagon, no juice to the fuel pump, or fuses. Error code 1-4-4. I have put in a new fuel pump relay, and a few of you have replied with helpful info about bridging the relay to check and jump power. (Relay does click). In the meantime, a neighbor helped me find a used, tested ECU 951, which I have YET to install.

My friend, Mike, is helping me fix the car. He is a BMW guy and his comments from workin gon the car once are as follows:


"From a BMW guy just trying to help.
I tested these items with a digital voltmeter to find no signal at all with the ignition on, and while cranking.

Fuses 1-10.. No power.
Leads at the fuel pump.. No power.
Leads at main 25 amp fuse while jumped.. Power.
Pluged new fuel pump into leads, cranked motor, no reaction, no vibration, no power.

Tested all leads to ground on fuel pump relay with ignition on, only found power to two of the six prongs. Not knowing what I was looking at for lack of a Bently manual, I have no idea what this means.
Tested each and every fuse for continuity, then tested to ground, and couldn't find power on any but #11 and the was around half of the battery was output at best.

All of this leads me to the ECU.. I dont know enough, but if the ecu is bunk on the e28 bimmer, signals will not be routed.. Just trying to help.."


Thanks!

AP
--
'73 164E/'76 240SW/80 240SW/89 240SW @315Kmiles!








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    Fuel Pump/Electronic Injection Mystery 200 1989

    Can be a failed ignition switch. The fuse box is also of poor quality and there might be a bad connection, but would more likely show up only on 1 or 2 fuses not all of them. I'd go for the ignition switch.








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    Fuel Pump/Electronic Injection Mystery 200 1989

    try jumpin the #4  fuse terminals, as that bypasses the fuel pump(s)at the fuse panel. if you hear them,( the one in the tank, if yours is so equipped), and the pump inline to the fuel rail,then try crankin it over, with a hot battery, of course. as for the rest of your troubles, sounds to me like your grounds are all shot! is this possible? sure, but, not all at the same time......see if you can find George Dill, or scott Hart on these boards, they are two of the most knowledgeable guys out there, and explain to them what your dilemma is, they certainly got me back up and runnin, that, and a lot of testin and fixin on my part, but it was worth it. chasing down electrical woes will wear you out quicker than three rounds with Bruce Lee, if you know what i mean. ALSO! before i forget, the connections to your battery must be clean, and tight, know it sounds simple, but all of the small things we all overlook when doin this stuff sometimes sets you back for ions, when it's time well spent to check the rudimentary items first, I.e.; the connection on your ECU i have just recently learned, is NOTORIOUS on these cars for wiggling loose, which will cause the car to possibly create some of the symptoms you've mentioned above, a large tie wrap(after you carefully remove the connector, and check it for embedded crap @ the pin connectors, and correct if necessary)is an easy and quick fix... don't know if you know about that one, but there you go. i have learned much in the month we've owned this car, but she runs good, still looks decent('85 244 DL), and i feel better about my daughter drivin around in that than one of these "throw-away" econo-boxes.by the way, when i checked my fuel pump relay, only one side of it would energize, and i heard it click, sometimes, when i would turn the key to the "on" position, but nothin after that. good luck, and let us know whay u find! louis







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