posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Mon Apr 18 09:11 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I read the thread from a few days ago in the 900 section started by poolman so I figured I would give it a try. Adjusting cam timing is rediculously easy. The cam gear came from the factory with wide slots for adjustement but they are not marked in degrees.
Loosen the three 10mm bolts on the front of the cam gear.
I took out the top bolt to show how the cam is adjusted dead center in the slot from the factory.
With the 3 bolts loose use a large screw driver to rotate the cam clockwise. The cam gear stays put. This will advance the intake cam. Please excuse my cheap camera.
Intake cam is now at full advance. Now just tighten down the bolts and you are done.
That was yesterday and I haven't drive the car since. I don't know if the valves are going to hit the pistons if I start the engine in this position. I have no idea how many degrees this is. I slept on that question and realized that Volvo wouldn't leave enough adjustment in the cam gear to let the valves hit. Would they? What do you think?
Justin
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Just got back from testing my cam changes and here's what's going on on my car.
Adjusted the exhaust cam about a have a bolt advance (using the bolt, loosened and still in the cam extending out about 3/4 of an inch). Adjusted the intake advanced the same way. Car pulls GREAT on bottom getting off, car pulls GREAT at 4grand and over on the highway and is smooth as silk crusing at 70.
I'm going to leave it where it's at and drive her like this for a while.
When I got back I took the air box out for clean up, where the box is hooked up to the air supply I noticed that they are two different pcs. Took the part off the box that the supply hose go to and saw that the supply part could be seperated into two halves. Took the halfs apart and the housing for the termistat for the hot air flap, and took the dremel tool to that ,and made it go away. Soothed out the enterence for more air, since I had fixed the flap for cold air only figured it wasn't doing any thing except restricting air.
Went back out on the road and I gots me a smile on my face. I like it.
To change the subject
Tjts1, didn't you say that your running an air draft tube, from your flame trap assembely back under the car and letting the passing enviroment pull the crank case gasses out. Are you still diong this and hows it working?
Sorry for the long post, and thanks for the posting on your findinsgs concerning the cam timing
Poolman
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Sat Apr 23 06:14 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Hi Poolman
Looks like we are using the same cam setting. I have to agree I really like both cams advanced. I'll play with it some more, try to dial in a little more advance and see what happends.
Im not sure if this link applies to our engine exactly but it is interesting none the less.
Cam timing simulations
I've had my airbox modified for over a year now. I removed the whole Y shaped mechanism where the cold and hot air meet at the air flap and replaced it with a 3" wide heater duct from in front of the grill all the way to the air box.
My airbox
The 960 intake is very restrictive in stock form in order to reduce intake roar. With this intake passers by definitely notice when I blip the throttle and power is up throughout the rev range. The heater duct is flexible so I've had it pointed forward to meet the oncoming air and to the side. Aiming it forward (pseudo ram air style) returns more kick on the freeway at the expense of more dirt and rocks in the airbox. After the novelty wore off, I turned the neck behind the grill sideways.
I ran a draft tube for about 6 months. I liked how it kept my TB clean but on the down side I could smell the fumes when sitting at the lights. And they are not exactly health. Every time I stopped the car I would have to turn the AC to recirculate. I used an in line fuel filter in the draft tube to prevent any dirt from getting into the crank case. But after a few months I returned it to its stock form. Next time I will experiment with connecting it directily to the intake manafold through a PCV valve.
Justin
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Tjts1--I'm going to hook my air box up like yours in just a little while after I post this message, like the way ya done it.
Concerning the pvc valve hooked into the air bonnet like the flame trap is on the stock location, I tried this and on my car it pushed oil back out my dip stick, oh yeah it pushed the dip stick back as well. I don't know if it came back thru there because of the bad o ring on the dip stick itself but oil was pushed back thru there any way.
I'm having blowby problems again and don't know whats going on. I replaced the breather box and hoses, I just got thru doing the double auto r-x clean up. Everything is really clean from what I can tell. The only time the car has issues with blowing any oil thru the flame trap, is when I drive her at high speeds for a lengthy time. If I drive her around at 60, no problems but when I go to 70--75--80 for a length of time she starts to miss oil.
Could the gasket on the oil filler cap cause some of this to happen?
Any ideas I haven't touched on would be quiet welcome. Checked the compression and all's well there, it's got me.
Keep up the good posts
Poolman
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Sat Apr 23 10:37 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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It doesn't sound like you have a high crankcase pressure problem. But if you do have an air leak somewhere in the engine, I would imagine at high load the air rushing past the flame trap in the air intake hose can create enough vacuum to suck too much crankcase air if there is a leak on the other end. More air will cary more oil fumes and therefore increase consumption. Just a theory.
Most cars with PCV valve also have a crankcase air intake somewhere. Volvo's system relies on sealing off the crank case completely except for the flame trap hose.
I replaced the oil cap seal a couple of time but it never cured the oil that would leak out onto the plastic spark plug cover. Eventually I replaced the plastic oil cap with an old school early 240 all metal cap along with a fresh seal.
oil cap picture 1
oil cap picture 2
Originally I replaced it for looks but it turned out to be a higher quality piece. You can adjust how tight it is by bending the little metal ears on the bottom.
My engine consumes a little less than 1/2 a quart of Mobil 1 5w40 in 5000 miles. It just passed 111,111 miles today. A mile stone in my book.
EDIT: the "Hardcore Home Depot Racing" intake is 4" diameter, not 3" as previously mentioned. You also have to remove a couple of plastic covers behind and to the right of the headlight in order to remove the old intake. Its a tight fit.
Justin
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Mon Apr 18 13:26 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I just took the 960 out of a spin in the hills. First think I noticed was the idles. Not lumpy but that destinctive sewing machine sound had a nice beat to it. I pull the advance back to about half way between dead center and full advance. I can definitely feel more torque from idle to 3000rpm by the seat of the pants. From there on its a toss up.
If I understand the theory correctly, by advancing just the intake cam I have increased overlap? I noticed idle vacuum has dropped by about 2 inches. Hmmm. sounds like i need more experimenting with both cams. But the good thing is, it works.
Justin
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tjts 1-- I set my exhaust cam up like you set your intake cam and didn't feel anymore power or tourqe,guess the advance is not much with the ecu reading whats going on will get back after I have some road miles on her.
Poolman
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Wed Apr 20 16:03 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I've tried 5 different setups so far. All measurements are in mm at the screws since I don't have degree marking yet. Stock hot idle vacuum is 19-20" depending on the mood of the car. Go figure.
1. advance intake 2mm - exhaust sounds nice, thats about it. 18" vac
2. retard intake 2mm - lost power at low RPM, more pep above 3000, a lot more above 5000. Im definitely trying this setup at the track next wed. 20" vac
3. advance exhaust 2mm - a little more torque climbing up hills but it just feels bogged down above 2000. I don't like it. On the up side, I have 22" of vacuum and engine brake is phenomenal.
4. retard intake 1mm, advance exhaust 2mm. I had high hopes for this one but it felt the same. I didn't have a change to rev the engine too much though. 20" vac
5. advance intake 2mm, advance exhaust 2mm - i like this. Definitely feel a lot more power below 3000, a little more above 3000. Hot idle vacuum is 21".
The really great part is how fast I can make changes. I drive around with a 10mm socked and a large screw driver in the back seat at all times. I changed timing in the parking lot at Costco once. The timing belt cover is staying at home for now. All the setups have been conservative on my part. The next step is to try full advance and full retard on both intake and exhaust.
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tjts1,
This has been great! Thanks for reporting your seat-of-the-pants results on all the experimenting. Interesting stuff!
DEWFPO
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1998 S90 071,245 and 1995 964 154,100
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BY advancing the intake cam you are getting a charge of gas into the cylinder a little quicker, but this runs out on top end, advancing the cams will give you more bottom end tourqe. Now the reason that your off a little on vacuum is that exhaust gasses are pushing some of your intake charge back out into the intake. What I'm looking into is advancing the exhaust cam a little and increasing the intake charge, leaving my intake cam at center as it came from the factory and getting rid of the exhaust gasses more quickly. This is the overlap, where exhaust pushes some of the intake charge back, or holds it up from entering as quickly. This in turn will or should give more vacuum. If you lost 2 lbs by advancing the intake cam, you may gain 2 lbs from advancing the exhaust cam and leaving the intake cam back where you had it before the advance that you adjusted in. More vacuum equalls more signal or throttle responce.
Neat though that you could feel more power on the bottom end, thanks for a good post, I have been wondering for some time about expermenting with these possibilities on cam adjustments for our model cars.
Will try on mine in a few days and will get back with the results.
Poolman
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Hey there tjts1--Great shots of what ya did, for the question of whats gonna happen when ya cranker up. I don't think you will have a problem with valves hitting in any way. The advance you have set there is probally less than 5%. On my car when I found the intake cam retarded 1 1/2 teeth there wasn't any interference at that time and by what I see from your pics, you may be about 1/2 tooth advanced. Might for saftey sake though, turn her over by hand just to make sure if you are concerned.
The reason I was inquiring about this was the write up on E3 spark plugs that said that with engine designers using there spark plugs you could advance or close the exhaust valve a little early to gain more power by stopping some of the cross over in vlave lap. None of the exhaust gasses interfering with the induction of the intake stroke.
I haven't tried this yet, but I will soon. I just got through today, putting new lower control arms with the bushings pressed in (Grotton's parts) along with new sway bar links. This is pretty durn good, what a few bolt on peices will do for the handeling of these cars. I don't think I have any problems now with the back bushings, the front end parts seemed to cure a whole plethra of thins.
Post back when ya crank her up and drive, let us know how this works.
Thanks for the post
Poolman
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