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Hey guys,
Here's some meat to chew on:
The fitting that my oil pressure sensor attaches to my block leaks. At first I thought it was not screwed in tightly enough, (I could see about 3 threads between the fitting and the block) so I decided to tighten it more. It was stubborn, but I got it a little tighter (now only about 1 thread showing). Still leaks.
Question is: should I tighten more? (afraid it will damage/break and be difficult to remove) or should I retap/sleeve the hole?
Next question:
My fuel gauge doesn't work. It actually works and gets power (I tested it) , but doesn't work normally. I put a ground wire from the sending unit to the body of the car--nothing. I replaced two screws thinking that might ground it better--nothing. I know this thing works, just can't get it to do so. ANy suggestions?
Next question:
When rounding a relatively tight corner at speed, my throttle kicks out momentarily. I let off the gas and by the time I accelerate again, the power is back. What's that all about?
Last question:
My throttle linkage sticks a little. I believe this is a different problem that the one mentioned above, however. It's just that, say I'm in 1st--I accelerate out of my drive and come to the stopsign about 100 yds from my house in a straight-away. I let off of the gas and the car jolts. I can see the linkage stick when I inspect it in the engine compartment. I have a Weber conversion from IPD that the previous owner had installed.
Question is--Should I rebuild my SU's, I still have the originals, or should I instal an improved linkage set-up, (I'm really fed up with the crappy one from IPD--no offense, I love IPD, but this linkage had got to go).
FOR ALL OF YOU FORUM WARRIORS AND VOLVO PROS OUT THERE, YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE, THANKS A MILLION FOR ALL OF YOUR ADVICE AND THE TIME YOU SPEND HELPING US ALL TO KEEP RUNNING!!
--
'66 1800S
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Just a couple of other notes.
Fuel guage certainly sounds like a sender issue. I would pull it and be sure it is working properly. They can get gunky and some gentle cleaning can work wonders.
Sticking linkage might be related to worn bushings in the linkage.
I had a weber set up for a while on a 122 and never really cared for it. I didn't have problems with the linkage, but the cold weather startup was a constant struggle. Might be a reflection of my relative ignorance regarding carbs, but I never had similar issues with SU's.
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1) if tightening it didn't help then the connection at the other end of the fitting is the suspect (or a crack in the fitting itself).
2) Is there key-on power at the fitting at the sender? If not, check by grounding with a jumper at the gauge (should go to full) but not for long as that can kill it too. If not, gauge is gebusted (technical term for not working properly). If so, wiring is faulty.
If you got power at the sender but still doesn't work then the sender is gebusted (see above for definition).
3) Sounds like improper float level. Could also be broken motor mount messing with throttle linkage (worse one direction than other?). Check for mount by jacking up engine (board between sump and jack, please). if it lifts off, then mount kaka (another technical term).
4) Hoo, boy. start with linkage dis-connected from carb for bends, kinks or missing bushes. Lube all moving parts. While dis-connected check carb itself for similar issues. Worn throttle shaft bushes can cause a hitch in the git-along of a weber. Make certain all throttle return springs are OK and properly attached wherever they need to go.
#3 and 4 can certainly be related.
Personally, I'd get the SUs rebuilt and go back but that's my 2-cents.
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Mike!
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1) Be sure it's not the flex hose attached to the fitting. If that blows out, you have zero oil pressure very quickly. If it is the fitting, you can get a replacement at any NAPA or other major parts store for $1 or so. I like to use Teflon plumber's tape on the threads.
2) I think it's the other way around -- open sender circuit reads full, grounded sensor circuit drives the gauge to empty.
3) & 4) What Mike said.
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1) I'd first make sure the oil is leaking from between the junction block and the engine block, not the oil pressure light switch or the hose. Yes, if that hose breaks you will lose oil pressure, all the oil within about 20 or 30 seconds, and generate a very impressive cloud of smoke as 4 quarts of oil spray onto a hot exhaust manifold. Use teflon tape to put the fitting back on. The threads in the steel block are almost certainly not damaged, but they might be trashed on the soft brass block - you could probably replace it with some plumbing fitting - take the old one to a hardware store and poke around.
2) On a '66 it should have the 'backwards' gauge - seems to work backwards of everyone's intuition and almost every other gauge. It uses two duelling magnetic fields to point the needle. One comes on when the ignition is turned on - 12 V to one side of the gauge, grounding theough the gauge body. This pops the gauge to a full reading. The other field is powered by the same 12 volts, but grounds through the tank sender - it pulls the other way, and when fully grounded by the sender it should read empty.
3) Stumbling around corners - could be an off fuel bowl level in the Weber. And the Webers can be more sensitive to cornering loads than other carbs because theyir design has air intakes (for the emulsifier tubes) at the top of the bowl - where I think they are prone to having fuel splash in. I have DCOE's on my PV, and they might not act quite the same as a DGV, but from what I've seen most Webers have a similar design, just different overall organization. My DCOE's will go lean if cornered hard in one direction, and go rich if cornered hard the other way. I'd just notice a bit of a bog if it wasn't for my wideband O2 sensor telling me what exactly was going on.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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GLU;
If your talking about the brass "T", it's threads are tapered pipe-type, so if they're turned in all the way and still leaking, it might be time to replace it...use gasket goop!
What does "nothing" mean guage should peg or go to zero when opening or grounding sender wire (I always forget which is which...someone else chime in here with the answer please!)...if it does that, the problem is at the tank/sender, if not guage is suspect.
I also don't know what: "my throttle kicks out momentarily" means...linkage problem or fuel level in bowl problem...?...it may be related to the other linkage problem...a carefull inspection and investigation is in order!
Good Hunting!
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Thanks guys,
BTW, new motor mounts, new fuel sending unit.
I was thinking about going back to the SU's but read Phil's articles and am
uncertain. He makes it sound like if you have SU's there's not a real reason
to switch, but if you have switched, there's no real reason not to be happy
with that.
Anyway, will check bushes in linkage and float level/carb components. Will check the fitting and use teflon when I patch it back up. I'll
also tinker more with the sending unit as you have outlined and let you
know. Thanks again for all of your troubleshooting tips!
--
'66 1800S
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Just weighing in with an SU vs Weber opinion, I'm back to SUs on my '66 with a later B20. The biggest problem with SUs, except for getting them tuned properly, seems to be worn throttle shafts and bushings. This allows air leaks and makes good adjustments almost impossible. I had my pair rebuilt by a reliable guy and the difference was like night and day. I adjusted them per Haynes and some other good SU books and they have been outstanding. Linkage adjustment is very important also. The Weber was a fair performer but my mileage suffered a bit and cold starting was a small problem. I live in southern AZ so the cold starting thing was not overwhelming. I guess my point is that if you have a good set of SUs, that may be the way to go. It worked very well for me. Hey, if you get that fuel gauge problem taken care of, I'd be interested in the findings. I think several other folks on this board would be too.
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Roy Olson
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Here was my sequence with SUs and Weber dowdraft:
1) Clapped out SUs on clapped out motor. Nasty, but always got me where I was going.
2) Good SUs on clapped out motor. MUCH better, but not right.
3) Weber in clapped out motor. Ran nice without much power.
4) Weber on good motor. After lots of rejetting, very decent. Stayed with this for years.
5) Good SUs on good motor. Finally really right.
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Thanks guys !I'll post my fuel sender solution when I get it worked out.
Phil, I'm at 4 now and that's as far as I seem to be able to take it. I guess I'm ready for #5 over the summer when I can really get into SU tuning.
Any recommendations for SU rebuilds? I know of one firm that offers a trade in (old ones for rebuilds) but any other ideas?
--
'66 1800S
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In the last six months or so, I've gotten four sets rebuilt by Rhys Kent at Island Automotion, and have been 100% happy with them.
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