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rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

Anybody have any special tips to get the Rear trailing arm bushings off?

I rented the special tool from IPD. No instructions so I may have used it incorrectly at first. The center bolt curved to one direction right away. I have taken it off, pounded it straight and retried a few times. I still cant get the bushing to budge.

Should I be pressing the center pieces of metal out first?

ont the passenger side I tried to push the wheel side toward the diff. Perhaps the wrong way?


Thanks

Ram
--
1989 245 MT, 195K








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    rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

    When I did this job, I managed to get the tool on the bushing a little crooked. When I tightened the bolt, the tool bent the outer shell of the bushing outward a little, sort of mushroomed it. No amount of tightening on th bolt would move the bushing. I had to take a punch and hammer the mushroomed part back in before I could get the bushing to move. When I did the second bushing, I was very careful to get the tool centered on the bushing and then the bushing came out much better. PBlaster was also a great help. Lube the tool threads each time you use it.








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    rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

    My condolences. I made The Tool last autumn, and mine did come out with some effort. A few points:
    Do not try to press out the center piece. All pressure must be directed at the outer shell/housing.
    My bushings came out towards the diff. I believe that is standard.
    The holes in the axle brackets curves inwards, and an amount of rust will be present in the crack between bushing and bracket. This was how mine looked:



    I scraped away as much dirt and rust I could, and sprayed a penetrating oil into the crack. And waited.

    Perhaps it will help heating the thing and letting it cool down, to get some movement between bracket and bushing. Just watch out for brake and fuel lines etc. If everything else fails, you can burn out the rubber, cut the shell with a hacksaw, and pound on it until it collapses. You will still have use for the tool when installing the new ones.

    Good luck-
    Erling.
    --
    My 240 Page








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      rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

      Thanks Erling,

      I checked out your website earlier. :)

      I am going to spray pb all over it and get a replacement bolt and try it again. I will pound the edge of the bushing inward to try and get a better seat on the sleeve.

      Do you think an impact wrench would do it? I could hopefully get one in there on the diff site. The tool requires a 30 socket....

      Ram
      --
      1989 245 MT, 195K








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        rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

        You can also use an Air chisel ( if you have those tools) to cut and collapse the bushing. for removal.

        For Reinstall:

        This is just an idea for these Bushings. It has worked for me on Upper and lower balljoints on 4WD vehicles.
        Freeze the Bushings overnight. They will shrink up a few thousands. making the installation a bit easier.
        --
        '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me








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        rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

        Hi,
        An impact wrench would certainly be a good idea, provided you have access to a powerful compressor - they do need lots of air. Also apply a liberal amount of grease to the washers, bolt and nut. Low friction is a must.
        If the driver will slide away from the sleeve, I would have made a large "washer" from a piece of flat iron, to put between driver and sleeve. The original Volvo tool has a ridge/groove to prevent sliding.
        Good luck,
        Erling.
        --
        My 240 Page








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          rear trailing arm bushing - have tools, still no go

          I got the instructions e-mailed to me from IPD. The only thing I did wrong was not lubricate the tool.

          I ordered another tool shaft to try again. I will also have to pound the bushing back in so the bushing tool doeesnt go inside the sleeve as it is now flared out.

          I have an electric imact wrench, no air. IPD says not to use one but...I may also resort to a reciprocal saw to cut the sleve in pieces. I can pick up one of those saws for cheap, or just rent one.

          Thanks again for your help.

          Ram







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