I agree entirely, it's essential to find a mechanic who understands the operating principle of Kjet injection or you'll be throwing money at parts to no avail. A pressure test is a critical step before condemning the fuel distributor, control pressure regulator, or injectors. It's unlikely that a failed control pressure regulator would allow normal operation at all unless it's failed open, then the car would just run lean when cold. Failed fully closed means the car wouldn't run at all, the control pressure above the control plunger in the fuel distributor would essentially lock the plunger down, meaning no fuel flow. I'd start with checking the operation of the cold start injector. Remove the plug & check for current with a test light while cranking (cold engine). The test light should light for approx 10 seconds then go out. This is a function of the thermal time switch threaded into the head. Cold engine=cold start injector operation because it can take a bit to get fuel flowing through the main injectors. Hot engine=no cold start injection, because it would cause flooding. For the same reason, cranking more than 10 seconds will stop current to the cold start injector. If no current, check the leads at the starter & thermal time switch. You may need a thermal time switch. Any Kjet parts you need should be available used. DO NOT throw $400 at a new CPR without even being sure if it's the problem! I've got plenty of used Kjet stuff if you need something, though you'd probably be better off getting it from someone else on the board who lives in the US (I'm assuming that's where you are) because of the hassles & delays getting stuff across the border. Email me if you're stuck though, see my profile for email address. Good luck! I've been there before...
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf
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