I'm in the midst of replacing the o-rings that are supposed to seal where the Y-Pipe (from the back of the waterpump into the engine). Has anyone ever done this before? On the block side the seal goes in a groove and the flange from the pipe is flat.

One of these seals blew out (perhaps with help?) and after having that fixed the other would seep coolant.

Having fun with the intake manifold off the V-6.

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Carter

I have done this before....(not by choice though, had to remove the pipe to change the knock sensors) It's a real pain (used viton O-Rings from a local source; Hydrapack) Mine doesn't seem to be weeping there anymore, but it has developed this mystery coolant leak that I can't find... just keep puting more coolant/distilled water in it every few days. It's kind of baffling... all the hoses have been replaced, the heater valve has been replaced, the oil is fine, no puddles, no smell, it just dissapears. Best of luck with that; the PRV is finicky with the hoses and external plumbing.

Nick
1987 780, PRV-6 264,000 miles
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1987 Black 780 PRV - V6 227,620 miles

Hi Nick,

Sounds like we have some similar mileage on our cars. My 87 760 has 252,000 miles on it.

I'm a little concerned about coolant loss too and am worried about possible head/head gasket problems. Is it possible it's accumulating in the valley under the intake manifold and evaporating off?

Regarding the o-rings I got this response from a delorean message board on the subject:

"I had a leak in the exact same place on my PRV. I used the O-Rings
from John Hervey's kit, and it worked just fine for me. They're nice
and thick.

To torque everything down, I first chased the threads with a tap, and
installed new bolts, just in case the old ones were streched out.

When I torqued everything down, I held the Y-pipe in place with one
hand to keep it flush, as I hand tighened down the bolts, and then
backed the one bolt out, so I could install the heater pipe. I then
slowly torqued everything by hand, using a star pattern on the 4
bolts. And THEN I installed the water pump with new silicone hoses.

Pressure tested @ 14psi for 20 minutes, and nothing leaked then, nor
since."

My 760 is pressurized at 21psi (i think) but other than that his procedure seems valid.

John Hervey/ http://www.specialtauto.com/ has a kit that includes 4 new bolts and o-rings. I may try that if the problem persists.

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Carter

actully...no. Te valley was the first place I checked. I did find it the other day finally. The hose connection to the overflow tank leaks after the car is p to temp.....tried tightening the clamp etc... no luck. Not sure if the tank is cracked but going to replace it anyway.
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1987 Black 780 PRV - V6 227,620 miles

Mine coolant tank was leaking too. I replaced the hose to the radiator and the tank. The replacement tank (an after market variety) was in worse shape than the old tank.

Best of luck with that.
--
Carter

You both can fix your weeping with Alumaseal. I used it for minor sleeve leaks on BOTH of the 260 wagons i used to own.

The only downside is, after a week or two you'll want to pull the radiator and get it cleaned at a radiator shop, and replace the coolant.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

That's an interesting suggestion and I may do just that. The radiator is past it's useful life span and will likely be replaced in the not to distant future.

I kind of miss the old days where I could just dump a can of Barrs-Leak in and keep driving. Actually i can still do it with my '71 145.
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Carter

A friend of mine used Barrs Leak in his 260 and promptly kissed his water pump goodbye. I wouldn't recommend that.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

I don't doubt that on a 260.

On my old 122s and 145 wagon and my Studebaker (long since gone now) the stuff worked great.
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Carter