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Alex --
I had this same thing happen and was able to fix it with no welding. In my case, I drilled a hole through the top of the frame member to get access to the busted-off captive nut. If you want to try this, here are the steps as I remember them:
- Mark the position of the nut on the top of the (hollow) frame member.
- Centerpunch this location
- Get an approx. 1" dia hole saw (yes they will drill metal), a long extension shaft (home depot, about $20), and a drill capable of low speed.
- Use this setup to drill a hole in the top of the member (working through the engine compartment). Use oil as you cut the hole to keep the saw sharp.
- Once you have the hole, you can use a socket to grab the nut. Loosen and remove it (I don't recommend using the bolt you've got. Once it's busted loose it'll probably pull through with no reinforcement).
- Clean up and pound flat the site of the former captive nut.
- Get a grade 8 washer, lockwasher, and matching nut and bolt of appropriate length (use the biggest washer you can, and add a second if necessary to fit the bolt).
- Drop in the bolt and washer from above through the 1" hole and then through the hole left by the captive nut (magnet is good for this).
- Carefully attach the bracket from below, add nut, and tighten. This is best done with a helper, one working above, one below.
In my case I got picky and used the nut above and the bolt below. Big waste of time chasing the nut and washer around inside the frame member. Also, one caveat is that this method works easily on either the front or the back bracket bolt (can't remember which). The other one might or might be tough.
Best of luck...
Jordan Singer (1967 122S)
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