Thank you everyone. I will keep you posted on the progress of the job. Sounds like a MW do-able project.

Marty Wolfson
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90 244 216K, 93 244 167K, 93 244 109K, 99 V-70 73K

I have used the Dremel tool with a ceramic cutoff wheel for this job and it has worked great. I generally cut the clamp at the first muffler and then just throw the whole mess out from there...no more cutting after that. In cases where I can't get that first muffler off the cat, I use the dremel to slit the muffler sleeve and then peel it back with a hammer an chisel.

All of this is not so bad if you are going with the cat back replacement.

-Ted

It is a pretty easy job once you get the system disconnected from the cat on back. If you have a saw, then you can cut it off. I always purchase the muffler patch stuff so I can use the material in the tube in the joints. I think the hardest part is getting the "rubber band" that holds the first muffler up attached. I finaly figured out how to do it with 2 screwdrivers. I purchase the entire kit from FCP, then lay it out on the pavement next to the car so I can visualize how it comes other. Then I attach it all, but I don't crank down the pipe fitters until I have everthing lined up so it doesn't clang around. Then just tighten everything up.

Budda-bing budda-boom.

--Joe HC
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1977 244 160k (?), 1990 244 102k, 1978 Fiat 124 Spyder (restoring)

Hi Marty,

This job can vary a lot depending on the rust due to short trip driving or your road salt. I've done it a half dozen times at least, on 240s a lot older than a 93, so I can tell you to go for it, without hesitation.

I've used both the Starla kits and the Volvo kits. The Volvo cat-back kit was absolutely the dreamiest under car exhaust work I've ever had to do. Everything fits right and the kit is complete. Caution here, I've just read a couple accounts on the forum where the Volvo kit is now an over axle scheme. I have not tried that one yet, and don't particularly want to.

You should be able to snap the clamp bolts with a wrench, or if badly rusted, large vise-grip pliers. Torch not necessary. Worst case; hack saw. The only clamp you need to remove is the one in front of the resonator, then just drop the whole assembly as a unit. I usually wind up coaxing the pipes apart, once the clamp is gone, with the help of the two pound maul. Anything with a bit of inertia will move the pipes apart until it drops. That is the most difficult part, and not bad at all.

Then, assemble the new parts loosely on the ground. A bit of balance required, but you can guide the front muffler onto the cat pipe with an arm outstretched holding the axle pipe, holding the rear muffler up on your chest. Once connected, the pins on the rear muffler are locked into the hangers, and the second most difficult part is left.

Getting the ears on the front muffler (resonator) hooked to the bracket under the car is tough, unless you can boost the muffler toward the floor with a jack. Then I use a pair of large screwdrivers to aid in stretching the big hanger o-rings over the resonator's ears.

The Starla kit goes on the same, and it does fit well too, but when you pay close to half of the dealer price, the oohs and aahs just are not expected. I wish I could be more specific about the differences.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore