Going to look at a wagon this weekend and wnat to know what I'm forgetting to take a look at - according to the owner who's had it four years, here is what I know -

1991 245 DL
225k mi
Auto - fluid flushed in last two years
Vinyl interior - v. good condition
Only rust is a quarter-sized spot on lower front-left rocker behind wheel - only surface, though
No leaks into the wheel well
Regular oil changes
Will need rear tires sooner than later
Prob needs shocks
Needs ball joints
Needs hatch struts
No recent valve adjustment
AC recharged and works fine
Plastic mats
Exhaust fine
No electrical gremlins
Rear-seat lowring handle broken

When I'm there, I'll obviously want check underneath for rust and any fluid leaks - check balljoints & tie rods - engine compression - flame trap - plugs - etc - what am I forgetting?

He's asking $1000 for it - sound like too much?

Thanks -
Zach
'92 244
'70 Spitfire Mk III

Am I correct in thinking that this 245 might be a 90 instead of a 91 in that it is badged DL, or was 1991 the last year for the DL model in the USA?

I think for that price you can't go too wrong. Look around for what else you can get for $1000 - it'll be a lot less safe/reliable/useful car than a '91 245.

What other car gets that kind of mileage and can carry a full-size sofa in the back?

Valve adjustment - not a concern. I did mine at 100k to quiet them down and have never considered doing them again.

Find out how old the timing belt is so you know when you need to do it again.


It is time for a new air bag, if you are inclined to spend that kind of money for a safety feature. I'm not.

As with any car this old, you have to be prepared to replace anything rubber - engine mounts, transmission mounts, front and rear suspension bushings. The more of this stuff that has been recently replaced, the more desirable the car. Rear shocks are no big deal. Front struts may be shot as well. They are a little more money and work.

The car is likely already on its second water pump and alternator brushes by now.

If the crank position sensor in the top of the bell housing has not been replaced, it is due. If the car still has the original plastic radiator, it is due to blow off its top nipple any day now. Replace it. Those are the two things most likely to leave you stranded with this car (other than running out of gas). If you replace the radiator, replace all the hoses, and check to see if the white plastic external radiator reservoir has gotten hard and brittle. It may need to be replaced as well. When it gets too brittle, it will crack.

The rust is a minor concern. That seems an odd place to rust. There may be body work there. Even if there is body work, if the car drives OK, you are still OK at $1000. From what you said, I would not blink at $2000 for this car.

If I were going to drive it to Alaska, I would spend a few hours checking out/replacing the following: make sure I had good tires and brakes, fresh fuel filter (by 'fresh', I mean less than 10 years old), good plugs, wires, and air filter. Intact engine and transmission mounts. Good driveshaft hangar bearing. Clean flame arrestor, clean idle air control valve, working hot air damper in the air filter box. Good windshield wiper blades. Check all fluid levels, and dump a bottle of Techron in the gas tank - can't hurt.

Happy Bricking!!!!!

I have 2 '91 245 models purchased used. Both were high mileage and still at $1000 it is cheap price for what you will get. I would check the following:

1/drive line to ensure that the u joints and center bearing are OK

2ensure that the trans shifts into OD (4th)

3/when was the timing belt chnaged?

4/Check and ask if the neutral safety swiich has caused problems getting out of park


plus the obvious eval.

Good luck at $1000 you can not go wrong! at least from the East/Coast comparrison

What does it mean if the tranny does not shift into OD (4th)?

As far as checking the ujoints and center bearing - just jack the car up, put it in park, and see if there is any play in the driveshaft or is there a better way to check?

Thanks - Z

Look at brakes.

Re. valve adjustment - I'm sure I'll be contradicted on this, but - - -

When I bought my first 240 from an indy Volvo specialist dealer, he said they bought the Volvo valve adj. tool when they opened the business. Many years later, they still hadn't used it, as apparently the engineers managed to design out the need for the adjustments. I think the idea was that the valves wear equally on both sides of the fulcrum, or some such arrangement. Anyway, in about 500,000 mi. of 240 driving in our family (all cars bought with over 100K mi. on the clock), we never found a need for a valve adjustment either. One of these cars is very close to 400K now.

Yes - will be certain to inspect the brakes.

I'm thinking about driving whatever car I find from the midwest to Alaska - obviously lower mileage is desirable - but would that put the kabosh on this option for any reason?

Zach