Volvo RWD 700 Forum

INDEX FOR 2/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 11/2012 700 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Just bought my first Volvo!!! Before you beat me up about archives.... 700

Hi all!

I am happy to say I have purchased my first Volvo, a 1987 740 turbo auto wagon. It has 219k on the clock, purchased for the princely sum of $400, since the owner said after he ran it out of gas, it wouldn't start anymore. After a 55 mile flat-tow behind my Olds, we found that all it really needed to start again was gas. I had assumed the PO tryed that, evidently not.

What I have is a car that runs great, idles smooth, but has problems, and as a new Volvo-er, I have a couple questions.

1)Should it take so darn long to come on boost? The diesel pickups I have driven have all come on quicker.

2)On the driver side of the steering column, next to the fog switches, what is the switch with the Y shape icon?

3)Does anyone have a site up that shows in pictures, what it takes to clean out all the stuff for crankcase ventilation. I am used to GM cars, so all this terminology is greek to me, from "flame trap" to Lambda (pun intended)

4)for someone used to pushrod valvetrains with hydraulic lifters, what is involved in setting valve lash, and changing the timing belt? Anyone in or near Flint, Michigan (Kettering) willing to loan me this special tool thing in exchange for a case 'o' beer or similar?

5)the power steering seems to squeal when i turn tight... does anyone have tips for adjusting the belt? Also when accelerating rapidly, I hear what I think is this power steering belt noise, but I am told turbo cars can make squealing noises, does the wastegate whistle (different from the deceleration whirp irp irp irp)?

Thanks

Kurt








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Just bought my first Volvo!!! Before you beat me up about archives.... 700

    Lots of good advice so far. I'd like to add a couple of items. Try taking the throttle body off and giving it a good cleaning with some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. Just three nuts. The throttle ball joint connection has a small clip holding the two halves together. There's a gasket but you may not need to replace it. Also take the air bypass valve out and clean it out good until the valve is loose and flaps around easily. Check all the vacuum lines and clamp any loose connections. Check the aluminum turbo housing for any leaks. Mine was worn through from rubbing on the intake hot air hose.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Just bought my first Volvo!!! Before you beat me up about archives.... 700

    Going to back Steve up on this one, The 'Y' switch is power antenna up and down but wouldn't count on the motor being any good.

    Lamda was the name given to the feedback fuel system known as "Lamda Sond" just a fancy greek name for oxygen senser.

    The turbo coming on late might be a leak or broken spring in the wastegate, do NOT however disconnect the wastegate to experiment. If that happens to be the culprit and you run without any boost control you might end up cleaning off the highway of your broken parts into a 5-gallon bucket with room to spare. The power steering belt needs to be tightened or replaced, I suspect the rubber bushings in the mounts have hardened up some giving you this additional slack. If a tighten wont cure replace the belt going one inch shorter.

    Setting the valves, check the FAQ as its chock full of proper procedures, you will however need some special tools to get the valve shims out and you might be inclined to visit a wrecking yard to harvest some more valve shims from junkers. A good pocket full of these will be to your advantage. You can make the tool however if you get a needle nose pliers with a very long snout and bend the jaws to go around the camshaft to pick the shims out of place, as for a compressing tool you're on your own but check on Flea-Bay, I looked for you tonight and didn't find any so you might want to find a volvo dealership and bring some vaseline... You can figure it out from here! While you're at it change the timing belt anyway as its cheap insurance.
    I recently drove my neighbors intercooled 700 and even in automatic form that thing was quick past 2400 RPM and pulled like stink to 5000, it doesn't boost up like a Cummins ISC but was never meant to be a high boost engine to start with. Remember an ISC doesn't like to fly much past 2100 RPM so its pressure relationship is different to start with not to mention we are a few liters short to begin with.

    Again check the FAQ as it will guide you in the right direction. Flame trap is part of the breather system and keeps backfires out of the crankcase, would like to see that on a chevy motor... Volvos have a slightly different language that in some ways is a bit more descriptive than the general terminology used by GM, PCV is flame trap... Turbo gas motor is unknown outside of the GNX except the poncho turbo grand-am or trashcan of the late 70's and a case of beer will get you a long ways provided you stay off the road during consumption.
    Hope this helps and a big CONGRATS on your Volvo purchase.

    Badge988








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      No Rubber Bushings on the PS Pump Mount 700

      At least not on my 1990 740. The aluminum mounting bracket can be a problem though. I just had a problem with mine - the pivot bolt hole in the bracket became elongated, allowing the the pump to cock out of line with the crank pulley. I may have loosened the pivot bolt just a bit at the last belt change to make it easier to swing the pump, and forgot to retighten it. That would allow the bolt to start "working" within the hole. I'm not sure if that's what happened or not, just a possibility.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      three major grounding points 700

      Since you asked and I happen to own a 87 non-turbo also bought for 400 bucks but have had to put two grand into it since. Anywho I was over at the dealer yesterday picking up some ac parts so I can have ac after moving back to Arizona. The parts guy turns out to be a volvo guru who messes with these things at home. Where was this guy a year ago? He told me the problems he sees the most are the three grounding points being corroded or being loose. The first one is on the drivers side up around behind the lights or down from there. The second is up around the intake man and the third is on the transmission. He said if you take the center console out you will see it.

      I hope your car is in better shape than my was when I got it. Check the electrical harness they are known to be bad. Also I had on and off problems with relays. I finally got it sqarred away two months ago. Anywho let us know what you find and what you don't. This is a great site and the guys are great here.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Just bought my first Volvo!!! Before you beat me up about archives.... 700

    1. Boost: check hoses for cracks and holes.
    2. Y switch: antenna lowering switch
    3. Cleanout: see the 700/900 FAQ under "features" button above
    4. Ditto the valves and timing belt.
    5. The turbo can whistle. Tighten the belt using the adjuster mechanism on the side of the p/s pump, first making sure the pulley is aligned correctly with the crank pulley (the p/s pump mounting bracket can wear).







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.