Sometimes you will be lucky, and the entire assembly comes free as you pull the hub, sometimes it leaves the inner race firmly on the stub axle.
Tricks I have heard are heating it up, splitting with a sharp chisel and a big hammer, or weakening with a grinder and then splitting.
I have always adjusted front bearings by putting the wheel back on and then gradually tightening the nut until the top to bottom shake almost but not quite disappears. If backing the nut to get the pin in then leaves it with anything more than that, I try another washer or add a thin shim by trial and error.
Chech after a few miles to see that it doesn't get tight as it gets hot, or has bedded in and is now too slack.

tha's what I did and it worked for me. The only thing was getting the right troque on the final nut when you're all doneI forgot what it was and I just do it by feel. I spin the wheel as I settle in the bearings then back off just a bit to get the cottor pin fitted. Hope that's some help!!

Yes, there is just enough to get a brass punch on the race. I did not use dimensional lumber when I did the job recently.