I asked this before, then review yoour answers, but still can't get these bolts out.

Both side now spin freely. Also, I notice that on either side of the shock eyelet are rubber isolators. I presume these locate the shock between the side of the trailing arm and give some damping against metalic knocking.

I had thought these were metal collars. No. Rubber. So, they don't appear to be holding the bolt.

My trouble is the bolts just will not back out of the assembly,to free the shock, even though they now spin.

I have even tried taking the weight off the shock; loosened one shock from its top mount -- there is no force against the bolt. Still I have hammered on the threaded ends forever and they don't budge.

And they don't unscrew.

What's up with these things?
--
'Can't understand why people abort Volvos, either' '89 740 Turbo, 122,000 miles

Hi

I put in a link in this message to show how I cut my bolts when I had the same problem. Maybe I have to post another message after this with a second image. Cutting with this metal saw blade took only a few minutes. You either have to cut on both sides, inside the suspension arm, or you can use a drill to remove the bolt head. From the nut side, that would not be so easy.

Good luck!

Gus,
With all respect, I probably should not be telling you how to do your work,
but if the blue jack is ALL you have holding that car up, you are in a
DANGEROUS situation! Also not too good for the brake inside that small
drum. And how about if the rotor separates from the hub? With the wheel
off there is not much holding it on!

I would HATE to hear that part of you (or anyone else) got crushed under
part of a car!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hi George!

Thanks for your concerns! Sorry for not checking back in here until today, April 12.

I agree the picture looks a bit scary, since it is a cutout from a larger pic and you can´t see the tripod stand on which this side of the car is resting firmly on. The blue jack was used to keep the axle from dropping too far, risking straining the rear brake hydraulic line. By using the jack it is also possible to adjust the shock absorber length and thus the degree of load on the bolts holding it. It also makes it easier to, once one of the bolts is in place, get the shock absorber end in line with the hole for the second bolt to go in at the other end (I don´t remember which end I inserted the first bolt in.

Again, I agree, we should always play it safe, never work with anything on the car when it is only resting on a garage jack (apart from changing a tyre/wheel).

Cheers! And many thanks for your very informative contributions to this board!

Gustafkalle

Here is the second image