Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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SU question 140-160

this i a follow up on my last question, if someone wants to look back and get a view of wahts going on. I have decided, then, that I will go with the SU's. the carb is running rich, actually, contrary to popular belief (the plugs are sooty), a friend who is a very experienced mechanic, whose word i trust, suggested the float may be set wrong, letting in too much gas, or an internal fuel leak of some kind, or incorrect jet settings, all things which i would have to tear the stupid thing apart to find out. i guess most of my dread for the su's comes from the fact that my last pair wouldn't work right. however, it may be easier now, because i KNOW that the rest of the car is running as it should right now, except for the brake booster, but that will be fixed later. I just hope I didn't mess them up from fiddling with them, but they were rebuild by myself before I put them in, but I had some problems with float chamber leaks, becase the float chamber plate was pushed down at the corners, or up, rather, towards the vacuum chamber for the cylender and needle assy. so i flatened the base of it, so it would seal correctly with a hydraulic press and a large ratchet socket, so the round bulge of the surface would fit inside the socket, thus only flattening the parts that needed to be flattened and not breaking or bending anything else. but, then the black plastic piece that runs down the float chamber piece and rests on or near the plate was bumping into it, and wouldn't allow me to adjust the screw for...watever it was for, correctly. thus, it would never work right. I tried bending the small flange that transferred movement of the screw to the black plastic thing, in hopes of allowing it to adjust correctly, but it never worked as it should have. however, now just thinking (i have some old nasty carbs that were from an old rotted 142 that have a deeper recess in the bowl plate, and thought of rebuilding those) that instead of doing <--that, i could simply clean up the plates from the nasty ones and switching it with the clean ones. but they may not fit across, we shall see in good time.... any thoughts? things to watch out for? the best way to tune them? actual work is dependant on both time and money, both of which i am not exactly abundant in right now. but as said, any thoughts?








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    HIF6 SU question 140-160

    I agree with the other post that a vacuum leak will cancel all bets on carb
    performance, especially since they are set at idle and with any size of
    vacuum leak you can't get a good idle; even if you do it will skew your idle
    mixture. (To me, that is the major fallacy in the "approved" method of setting
    SU carbs, you are doing it under the circumstances that make it most sensitive
    and thus most prone to error.)
    You can get new or used bottom plates from Joe Curto (718) 762-7878
    or Rhys Kent (250) 479-5482. Rhys is on the west coast of Canada and Joe is
    in New York. Be sure and get new bottom seals also and you should probably
    also get new throttle shaft seals, too, because they likewise, if bad, will
    screw things up at idle.
    --
    George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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    SU question 140-160

    You say there is a problen with the brake booster you will repair later. A vacum leak to the booster will not let you adjust the carbs right. At least plug the vacum hose and see if thing run better
    Joel the locksmith
    Webster NY where life is worth living.







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