to those who have responded: i tested the air flow plate that is illustrated in the great video. mine moves just as well as the one in the clip. i had my wife crank the car over while i moved the plate down and up. (i haven't figured out how to do it with out my wife yet!) anyway, no go. i am pretty sure its a weak pump. the guy i bought it from said that toward the end of the time he owned it, the car got weaker and then one day just died as he was driving. it sat in his driveway until i found and bought it. i only paid a couple hundred for it, so if i can spend another couple hundred and have it run, it was worth it. i don't want to have to spend more than maybe two or three hundred total, though.

any advice is wanted. a fellow bricker offered a pump to me, and i will likely buy it if i can get some confirming votes that the pump is the culprit. (the internal tank pump is fairly new)

swarner

i had my wife crank the car over while i moved the plate down and up. (i haven't figured out how to do it with out my wife yet!

I told you how to do it in your previous thread:

"...run the pumps (jumper fuses 7 and 4 -- Left side contacts best)".

You can also make up a long switched jumper, unplug the fuel relay, and jumper between relay harness terminals 30 (Red) and 87 (Yel/Red). That will let you control the pumps from under the hood.

BTW, Does the frequency valve buzz when engine is being cranked? I don't remember if the FV is normally closed or open, but it's worth checking. As a quick test of FV operation, you can force the Lambda system awake (Key OFF) by back-probing the lambda relay coil terminal 86 (Blue) with +12V from the battery.

This doesn't start the pumps, but the FV should buzz right away. Another way is with the fuel relay harness jumper (above). Jump 30 to 87b (Blue wire, same as the battery jumper suggestion.)
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Here's what that JCWhitney tester looks like connected to a non-lambda NA k-jet. Also, a simple means of turning on the pumps without threatening marital bliss.

I would bet the ratio of fuel pumps sold to Volvo supposed fuel problems solved is about 25:1.

Couldn't have said it any better!
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Did you do a fuel pressure test yet? One thing you can try to get some idea if the pump is working as it should is to locate & disconnect the fuel return line. There should be fuel being pumped out at a steady rate with the pumps jumpered, with no evidence of air in the gas. If there's not any flow from the return line that means one of 3 things: 1) the pump is not running, 2) it's not drawing fuel from the tank pump (check to be sure the tank unit is pumping fuel, if the rubber hose on it has split or come off it'll draw air) or 3) it's not building up enough pressure to overcome the resistance of the fuel pressure regulator & enter the return circuit - in which case there certainly isn't enough pressure to open the injectors. Check your voltage at the main fuel pump, too, by backprobing the connectors, it shouldn't be any less than around 12v with it running or it won't have enough juice to make the pressure. Could just be bad connections or wiring for the pump. Worth checking, doesn't cost you anything to do this simple test, at least... But you might want to invest in a fuel pressure gauge sooner rather than later if you'll be doing a lot of tinkering on K-jet. Take heart - once it's working right, I've found it to be fantastically reliable.
-Chris