I'm doing the body work on a 1970 1800E. Has anyone out there MIG welded Foreign Autotech rocker 16 gauge panels and lower fender repair panels. I realize that the rocker panels are not Volvo replacements but this is for a daily driver and not show. Duane's panels are heavy not requiring the middle rocker stiffener and cheap

The 16 guage panels are 48" long and extend past both door jambs creating good structural rigidity. My question is whether I should just overlap the entire lower fender repair panels sandwiched to the rocker panels and plug welded. I would think that moisture would collect between the two panels causing quick rust through.

Any ideas?????

Craig
Collector of 13 Volvos(122s, 1800s, 740Ts,960s)

You have good replies from the other responders, but a couple of points:

Be sure you prime your new metal inside and out to prevent rust. A good epoxy primer is best, if you have the ability to spray it. If you do decide to weld, be sure to follow the advice about weld-through primer. It is pricey compared to the hardware store rattle can, but worth the extra few bucks. I think the advice for using panel adhesive is really sound. I personally wouldn't go with construction adhesive. It might work fine, but that is not the application it was designed for.

You can get epoxy primer, weld-through primer in a rattle can, and panel adhesive at a good auto paint supply store. You can also get some stuff online, such as at www.autobodystore.com.

Thanks.

I intend to plug weld the base of the rockers and panels where they attach to the inner rocker(new metal already replaced), flange spot weld the top of the repair panels and butt weld around wheel well opening. I planned to use weld-thru primer or cold galvanized at the weld area and ZeroRust away from the weld sites.

Craig

Thanks.

I intend to plug weld the base of the rockers and panels where they attach to the inner rocker(new metal already replaced), flange spot weld the top of the repair panels and butt weld around wheel well opening. I planned to use weld-thru primer or cold galvanized at the weld area and ZeroRust away from the weld sites.

Craig

Hi! there Law
well it happens that i'm in the bodyshop bussines , and about to reconstruct a 242 1982 will be replacing the wheel arches in both sides ,with panels made in denmark (don't remember the fabricator's name but i work with them in the past is an exelent product )
tip :Do not, under any circumstances sandwich any panels ,cut and just overlap no more then 1/2 inch , and cover any bare metal with weld-trough primer, then plug weld .
or you can try 3M panel bonding (exelent product ,the good thing about this is that welds and seals for moister in one shot ) where posible .

i will try to post some pics later one ..

coper.

Thanks.

I suspected that sandwiching the panels would result in quick rustout. I guess that means that I have to cut the rocker panels so they are considerably shorter than the are now so they only extend 3/8 " over fender patch panels seam under door. I was hoping to not have to do that as it will reduce structural rigidity of rocker panel area.

Perhaps I could cut and bend the extra rocker metal away from the fender panels and still weld it to the inner rocker. But bending 16 guage will be a challenge.

Craig

Fully agree on the overlap. The name you're looking for is probably Klokkerholm and I agree that they make a pretty good product. The only drawback with them is that they're sometimes a bit optimistic about panel interchangability. With a 240 it's no problem, but they list the same floorpans for the 140, and early 140 have a different pattern stamped in. By the time you've made it all line up you might as well have beaten a floorpan out of flat stock. But for curved/complex panels they're good. So keep an eye open that you do in fact have the correct panels.

Not familiar with the 3M product, is that a glue or is it a better replacement for weld-through primer (ie. do you still need to get out the MIG kit?)

Bram

Coper, beat me with your reply and I agree 100+ about the rot sandwich. I've been welding for close to 40 years and only do some body work as part of the hobby. You also touched on another point that I'm going to try on the girl friends 72E. She needs both rockers, lower fender repairs and I will be be doing very little welding. I will be air flangeing and glueing the pieces on with a product called PL 400 (a common urathen construction adhesive). I ran some tests for strengh and had a friend shot prime and a base coat/clear coat and then left it out side in the weather for 6 months. A lot of stuff is glued on the new cars these days.

hello waynes .
pl 400 (premmium) that homr depot stuff ummm..., well i have used that for home repairs it is very good , have not used for auto repairs i will run some tests just for the hell of it ...
but the panel bonding made by 3M it is solid product,( i do not work for 3M)just love that bonding panel stuff , i forgot to mention that do not use polyester fillers on top of panel bonding (i call it " miracle glue ")
polyester fillers don't stick to this stuff , you have to apply a coat of etch primmer to the bare metal areas only and then apply a good 2 coats of 2K primmers (two part primmers) scuff then you can apply any body filler as you see needed.

coper .