Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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1968 122 120-130

posted by  Danny on  Wed Apr 6 05:35 CST 2005
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last visit: Mon Oct 6 22:01 CST 2014
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Looked at this car yesterday and am having a difficult time making a decision.
Inner wings look great. As the car has been repainted (some time ago) it's difficult to determine what might be underneath.
little rust showing at the rear of one door and at the front top edge of the ribbed extensions behind rear wheels; rockers great,
water (lots of rain here recently) under the front floor mats, but surprisingly no rust accumulation
strangenesses:
B20 engine with 67 one piece int/exh manifold (good!)
working replacement booster
engine strong
passenger seat has the exotic reclining hardware
was an automatic as the trans mount has extension arms which bolt to the body behind the normal mounting location (TYPE number on plate is 133461 - the 6 designationg BW35.
driver door is different - earlier wind wing hardware.
has earlier 2 bolt carbs and ancient air filters.

I'm torn - I wish that it hadn't been repainted so that all was revealed, but of what I can see the body is very good - trunk clean in serams and corners; spare tire well.

It's almost not a matter of offering less - want the best possible body.

almost new michelins 165

how to decide?







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    1968 122 120-130

    posted by  someone claiming to be Erik on  Wed Apr 6 08:47 CST 2005 [RELATED]

    Danny if your really concerned with rust, go to your local auto parts store, purchase a (various names) metal thickness pen, body pen, magnetic pen, they should come with a gauge that reveals the thickness of the metal. If it has a lot of randomness there is probably rust/bondo under the paint. Make sure the frame rails are strong and rust free. I have learned the hard way to alway carry one of these pens and a good awl before buying a car. Use the awl to tap the rails up and down and do it hard. If the awl goes through your rails have problems that are fixable but very expensive.

    Good luck, they are fun cars.

    -Erik







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    1968 122 - issues specific to this year 120-130

    posted by  Danny on  Wed Apr 6 05:56 CST 2005
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    last visit: Mon Oct 6 22:01 CST 2014
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    dual brake master and 'self adjusting' rear brakes
    'collapsible' steering wheel coupling
    rubberized dash fitments and bowtie steering wheel (horn ring broken)
    side indicator lights
    different rear window closers -cool!

    was an 'automatic' body - what could the downside of this be?

    I would put a spare J type OD in this car - any problem with the 'automatic' trans support AND the OD?







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      1968 122 - issues specific to this year 120-130

      posted by  honeychrome on  Wed Apr 6 06:58 CST 2005
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      last visit: Fri Oct 10 03:31 CST 2008
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      I'm also curious about the potential problems with an OD trans in a car that was formerly and auto, as it the case with my car. Like, why didn't whomever converted from auto to manual put an overdrive tranny in in the first place? Especially since going from auto to manual is apparenlty a big PITA. One thing to note, there really isn't a lot of footroom on the gas pedal in a formerly auto car- tight squeeze against the bigger tunnel. I can't wear boots or big shoes when I drive mine!

      Oh man, and the passenger seat reclines! I need to scare up the brackets to do that for my passenger seat too, but I think they're rare and $$$!








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        1968 122 - issues specific to this year 120-130

        posted by  Danny on  Wed Apr 6 07:13 CST 2005
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        last visit: Mon Oct 6 22:01 CST 2014
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        I think that some Volvo entusiast/repair shop(s) were inclined to take whatever bodies they came across that were in good enough condition to merit 'restoring', enough to create a resaleable car, and if it was an automatic, they'd work with that. Imagine that for cars of this age, most likely, automatics were more likely to be purchased and driven and cared for by an older inital buyer - probably those bodies were more likely garaged, more carefully maintained by a mechanic, etc. And when they went to sell them or trade them in (I think this one went through Svensson's in Berkeley Ca.) these shops would end up with automatics, swap in an M40 (more saleable) and put them back out on the road.

        I didn't seem to notice the pedal problem, and I have large feet.

        Were ID plates riveted in or screwed in with tiny phillips head screws? This one is identified as auto by the 133461 number. Where are the tunnels larger? overall, or at the rear where the BW35 would sit?
        Is there any problem supporting an OD to a previously automatic equipped car?








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          1968 122 - issues specific to this year 120-130

          posted by  Phil S. on  Wed Apr 6 08:06 CST 2005
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          last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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          You can find the real type ID and serial number stamped into the body -- it's either next to the heater box by the battery, or above the heater box.








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            1968 122 - issues specific to this year 120-130

            posted by  Danny on  Wed Apr 6 08:24 CST 2005
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            last visit: Mon Oct 6 22:01 CST 2014
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            looking a pictures I took yesterday (which I can't figure out to attach or upload). It looks like a PO welded pieces of angle iron to the M40 support - which project rearwards from the support and are bolted into holes in the body for the automatic transmission. Question is whether this is enough support for an OD transmission, or whether I'd have to remount in correct location








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    1968 122 120-130

    posted by  someone claiming to be patrick of mtl on  Wed Apr 6 05:45 CST 2005 [RELATED]

    look inside the trunk behind where the spare wheel is kept for an idea of how well/bad the earlier repair/rust was. mY experiencew is also the lower edge of the doors is hard to repair well, check the inside edge along the bottom.







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