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A/C questions 700

Where is the high pressure test port on the compressor? I found what I thought was the cap for it but I couldn't get it off.

I did look at the low side pressure. Temp outside was 65, low side pressure was sround 40psi at idle, dropping down to 26 psi at sustained 3k rpms. Outlet temp was approx 42 at idle dropping down to 39 when revving the engine. Does this sound right?

If I decide to go whole hog with this, evac the system, new receiver and orifice, etc, is the compressor rebuildable? Is that something that I can do or should I just buy a rebuilt compressor?

Thanks all!








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    A/C questions 700

    Jacob,

    You can do your own 134a conversion. fcpgroton.com has Volvo's 700 conversion kits and as I recall there are good instructions on the process in the 700/900 FAQ. Kits for 700's are generally under $100
    You didn't mention what year 700 you have but here's a link to 87-90 conversion kits.

    http://www.fcpgroton.com/VolvoAC/volvo760b280.htm

    I converted my 88 240 to 134a last summer, that kit requires an evaporator and runs more than twice the cost of the 700 kit. But filling the system with 134a at 2 dollars a can sure beats $45+ per can I was paying for R-12. Cooling in my 88 is now pretty good for a 240, even with 134a in the system. The 700 conversion should be simpler, less costly and produce even better results. I plan to convert my 87 745T to 134a this spring. I found an auto A/C parts supplier who rents vacuum pumps by the day, so once the old system has new seals,dryer, ester oil etc. I'll draw it down and refill with 134a myself. Since the system leaked all the old R-12 out years ago there's no need for R-12 recovery equipment and to involve the sometimes unpleasant folks at an A/C shop. Hope this helps








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      A/C questions 700

      Thanks for the info! One of my options is to convert, but I'm thinking that if I'm going to do that I should rebuild or replace the compressor. What I really want to do, though is figure out if the current charge is ok, the compressor seems ok but there is a slow leak somewhere, slow enough that I'm not really worried as long as the orifice isn't clogged up. If I do convert I should get a new orifice, all new orings (those are in the kit, right?) a new reciever/dryer, new hoses?, new compressor? (is there a different model that is better for 134a?).

      Thanks!








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    A/C questions 700

    >Where is the high pressure test port on the compressor? I found what I thought >was the cap for it but I couldn't get it off.

    There is none.

    >I did look at the low side pressure. Temp outside was 65, low side pressure was >sround 40psi at idle, dropping down to 26 psi at sustained 3k rpms. Outlet temp >was approx 42 at idle dropping down to 39 when revving the engine. Does this >sound right?

    Yes.

    >If I decide to go whole hog with this, evac the system, new receiver and >orifice, etc, is the compressor rebuildable? Is that something that I can do or >should I just buy a rebuilt compressor?

    What's the problem?








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      A/C questions 700

      At this point I'm not sure if the system is over, under, or correctly charged. I have two cans of R-12 left and am trying to decide what my two year plan is for the A/C.

      I thought the temp should have been blowing colder... So without recovery equipment there is no way for me to know if the charge is correct?

      The questions about rebuilding the compressor factor into my decision to convert to R-134a.

      I'd like to take it in to someone and pay them to evacuate, replace the orifice, replace all the orings and then recharge. The last car I had that I took to someone to have the R-12 topped off came back with a $1200 estimate plus the jerks stole my R-12. The compressor would cycle but wouldn't cool when I took it in, when I left there was vacuum in the system. I don't want to take it somewhere and have to argue with anyone about what is legal with an R-12 system.








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        A/C questions 700 1992

        I just converted my 92' 740 to 134a and came into some new information. I just read that on r12 to 134a conversions DO NOT flush the system as the hoses will leak. Replace the compressor , orfice tube, and accumulator,and any o rings that are in connections you broke open evacuate and charge. My tables show 38 oz. for a 240 and 40 oz. for a 740. The deal on flushing seems to be that the r12 oil has penetrated and sealed the hoses and since the new oil is compatable the hoses stay sealed. If flushed the hoses become more porous and prone to leakage. I followed that process and so far no leaks.







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