Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

My car has fallen victim to the sudden coolant loss phenomenon that i've read so much about. In this case, the upper water pump seal is to blame. I've read posts suggesting that i go ahead and replace the entire pump and timing belt. I'd like to go ahead and do that but i'm wondering if an inexperienced person such as myself can handle that kind of task without getting into something i can't handle. My only mechanical experiences have been replacing the Air mass meter, and removing/cleaning the Throttle body. (aside from the usual oil change). Just wondering if this is something i should attempt, or should i just go ahead and start filling out a check to the local repairman? Thanks!








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

Thanks for all of the advice. I've ordered the parts and will probably take a stab at it in a couple weeks. I'll let you know how it went.


Slumbo








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

The timing belt and water pump do not have to be changed at the same time but there are some things common to both that may make it worth while to do them together. If the t-belt is due, you might as well go ahead with both.

It's always hard to advise on matters of mechanical experience. How do you get the experience if you don't try? There's always that first time. What I'd suggest is that you do a search on this site on each repair and carefully study how to do them. A Bentley repair manual would be of great help too. Then if you feel up to it, go ahead. There are some special needs for each repair.

1. The water pump is the easier job of the two. You'll need a way to hold the fan hub while you loosen the four nuts that hold it to the pump. I've used a rubber strap wrench from Sears on this. When you go to tighten the bolts holding the pump to the block, you need to pry up slightly to compress the upper o-ring seal. Don't over-torque the bolts. Don't over-tension the fan belt or the pump bearings may fail early. Don't ask how I know this.

2. You'll need a way to hold the crankshaft while you loosen the nut on the crankshaft. There are several way to do this which you can learn on this site. I used the Volvo special tool but many make their own tool or use the "rope trick". Study the timing marks for the belt. Once you see how they work, they are fairly simple.

Once you get the pump off and the t-belt off, you should consider replacing the front seals. This sounds like a lot but it isn't too hard to do. If you have a mechanic do the work, go ahead and have the seals done too. If you can do the work yourself, you can save $$$$. The parts won't cost too much. Good luck and post back with more questions. I was encouraged by the information and advice on this forum to go ahead and do these repairs successfully.








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

Jim,

What are the names of the front engine seals that can be replaced when doing the timing belt?

Thanks!

Ram








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

Front crankshaft seal
Front camshaft seal
Auxiliary shat seal








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

THANKS








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

Very feasible. Remove fanbelt, remove pulley from waterpump, remove upper timingbelt cover (partly obscures a couple of screws), remove waterpump. Clean all mating surfaces. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Count on about 2 hours if you've never done it before.

Bram








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240 Water Pump / Seal Question 200 1991

Slumbo,

This isn't too difficult a repair. I just did it on my car about 3 weeks ago. Though you do have to remove alot to get to the pump. The fan shroud, fan belts, fan, fan, fan/waterpump pulley, timing belt cover and all need to be removed. The 700/900 FAQ is an excellent reference and most of what's written applies to your car.

I also had a leak at the top seal to the motor too. I bought a gasket kit from FCP Groton which includes the 3 gaskets you will need. I didn't replace my pump as it seemed to rotate smoothly. I also didn't use any RTV to "supplement" the main seal, although others suggest using it. Make sure that your gasket mating surfaces are as clean as possible before putting everything back together.

I'd say read through everything in the FAQ first and make sure you have the tools you need and the parts you need before starting. It also helps to have labelled little baggies for all the screws and bolts you will be removing.

Take your time, I'd say 3 hours and it shouldn't be too difficult.

Good luck,



Mike








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