I am about to go check out a prospective newer body - a 1968 that spent most if not all of its life on the southern California coast. It was repainted about 7 years ago and the PO is getting information from his PO about whether it was due to body damage or rust or what. I'm familiar with east coast cars and the typical spots to look for rust or repair - front fenders at the top rear corners near the windshield, headlight area, floors in front from windhield seal leaking, rockers, and rear fender lower ribbed section.
I'm wondering about where else to look on a car that was subject to salt air rather than road salt. This car is only being considered for the body - I would transplant my mechanicals, so I'm super concerned about getting a great body.

What, where are other indications of potential problems, OR indications of rust that has been covered up?

All you north coast saltair (rust never sleeps) types, I'm talking to you. thanks

Where's Phil S.? He lived that kind of corrosion and recently had it repaired. Chech out V-classics website for the story with dirty pictures.

Check the ends of the frame extensions in front of the radiator support too.

Rear passenger foot areas on floor (low spot).

Front corners of trunk whre all those pieces of metal come together and the road nasties hit it from the other side.

Top of fuel tank (oddly).

Battery tray, of course.

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Mike!

For those of you looking for one, East Coast:

There is a VERY solid 1967 or 68 4-door 122 sitting in an impound yard here in New London CT. It's amazingly good and complete, but apparently is missing its keys. It was a tow from a DUI stop on I-95 and never picked up.

I understand they want something like $500 for it, but ask them, don't take my word for it. It has now sat all winter. They may really want the parking spot back...

It's a funny pale yellow color, very clean and straight body, and it's umm... and automatic! Not great but if nothing else a fantastic parts car. Go see it!

Columbus Square Auto, (860) 442-1236
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!

Does salt air and frequent rain in coastal Panama (both coasts) count as
applicable experience?

Pretty much the same areas. Inside the WHOLE front fender is an area to
inspect. See lots of them rot out around the headlights and the bottom rear
of the front fender.
Also if the door window seals have lost their integrity look at the insides
of the doors, make sure the drain holes are open, etc. Drain holes get plugged
with dust and debrís.

Then there are the sills/rockers, around the reflector housing, etc.

--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

A matter of a few km away from the coast can have a dramatic difference on the level of deterioration. Check where it was usually parked. The vehicle checking stations usually use a small rubber hammer and a good ear to hear parts that have been filled or that are rusting away. From the outside you'll just see the paint bubbling eventually.

I thought my Amazon was fine until I got the spare wheel out. The bottom of the well was almost rusted right out. Luckily the wheel is inflated so that it's a tight squeeze and I don't think it would have fallen out!

Tom

Another traditional way to check for filler is with a magnet. Doesn't take all that much filler to make a magnet not stick. Your average whiteboard magnet works just fine for this purpose and is ease to obtain in most office settings.

Bram

50 meters will make at least a 10-fold difference in atmospheric saltfall.
Check out the LaQue Center for Corrosion Technology website.
They are at Wrightsville Beach and Kure Beach near Wilmington, NC.
Panama was even more dramatic. 1 KM made something like a thousandfold
difference.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!