Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 1/2002 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

M46 removal, starter housing interference 200

I attempted a clutch replacement on my 84 242 Turbo the other day. I got everything unbolted and even got the tranny seperated from the engine, but I couldn't get it to drop. The bellhousing has a buldge to accomodate the starter gear, and whenever I pulled the tranny back that would hit the firewall (or whatever body panel is right there). I could't get the transmission far enough back to have the input shaft completely clear the pressure plate and therefore drop down.

Any tips for getting that thing out?

I decided that if I couldn't get it out with gravity helping me, then I would never be able to get it back in with gravity working against me, so I put it back together to drive it into the shop to let them do it. Unfortunately, I can't get the clutch cable back to the "sweet spot" of functionality and the clutch is non-functioning at this point. If I get some good tips on the bellhousing then maybe I'll try again.

-Dave








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

M46 removal, starter housing interference 200

Rotate the box counterclockwise so the starter gear bulge no longer hits the metal of the footwell.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

M46 removal, starter housing interference 200

^^^^^^^What he said.

Still a problem, you can also try jackign the front of the engine up. I had to do it with my shot motor mounts.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

M46 removal, starter housing interference 200

If rotating doesn't help, you simply have to get the combined unit at a sufficient tilt. You need the front of the car raised high enough, and possibly release the front mounts. If you position blocks under the sump pan at the right point the engine will pivot, dropping at the rear and lifting at the front. Obviously you have to have removed the exhaust pipe to allow for enough mnovement.
A tip for getting it re-engaged afterwards is to temporarily use a couple of long bolts to secure the engine to the box, and then wind them together while rotating the output shaft. That reduces the risk of the box slipping out of engagement and hanging on the input shaft.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.