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bodywork question, recreating a seam 120-130

When my replacement rear quarter panel was attached to car, shop neglected to keep both seams which go between body panels. Yellow arrow indicates seam I am describing, red arrow shows where there is supposed to be one.

Think it's possible to recreate seam with grinder or something? After looking at repair from inside trunk, I'm concerned how the repair was carried out. I can't tell if the panels were welded together (I hope not!); something sure doesn't look right. I'll get some digital pics of repair from inside trunk and post next week.

Going to have to tackle this area again anyways, the paint has begun cracking in approximate area where seam should be, not good (especially since I towed car out of autobody shop only a few weeks ago).

Oh yeah, the silver metal piece which holds tailight bulbs has now been installed correctly (from the inside, not on outside as shown in pic).









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    bodywork question, recreating a seam 120-130

    I would be far more concerned about the paint cracking than the seam. Any idea what type paint was used? It sounds to me like they either used an inferior filler to fill the seam and it is expanding/shrinking at a rate different from the surrounding area or that they used an incompatible paint/filler combination. If the paint was base coat/clear coat then they will need to sand out the bad area, re-shoot with base coat, then clearcoat the entire panel--in this case the entire rear fender. If they used a single stage paint then they might have a tough time blending it in to look right. Either way, I suggest you take a very close look at all the seam-type areas for any other evidence of cracking. My guess on the seam is that they simply covered it with filler, in which case it can easily be fixed.








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      bodywork question, recreating a seam 120-130

      The paint used was Diamont Urethane, single stage with a bit of clear coat added when sprayed. I believe 2 other areas are cracking also; both vertical seams below headlights where front fenders meets the front valance.

      I know that there was some type of black sealer applied in these front areas, then touch up paint was slapped on top of it. Wasn't even buffed out, another thing I'll have to deal with, not to mention the orangepeel problems. I'm getting depressed thinking about it, better stop typing.








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    bodywork question, recreating a seam 120-130

    Damian,

    First off, those panels were welded together from the factory, so don't hope they aren't now.

    If 100% originality is the issue for show purposes, yes, a judge would hit you for having the seam filled... and it would matter only if the another car in stock Amazon class was so evenly matched to yours that there was nothing else to pick on. We see some cases of that sort of thing in stock 1800 class, but I haven't yet in Amazon. It's usually fairly clear how to rank the entries overall.

    In modified class, filled seams are not any points off. Might conceivably even be a plus.








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      thanks Phil 120-130

      Very cool news Phil, thanks for setting me straight. I assumed the rear quarters were like the front fenders, no welding....

      I don't mind having no seam showing, I just want to get a consistent look on both sides of car, kind of strange having one side with both horizontal/ vertical seam, and other side just having the vertical.

      I'll still have to have that area worked on, since the cracked paint is definitely not a good thing. Maybe when I have that taken care of, I'll see if bodyshop can replicate the look.








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        thanks Phil 120-130

        Ah, so there's a seam on one side and not on the other? That would bug me...

        If you're having the paint worked on in that area anyway, they should be able to see what the seam is filled with. That would tell you what the path of least resistance is -- unfilling the left side, or filling the right side to match.







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