The little lug on the crankshaft is just raised enough to be flush with the thin belt guide when I slide that on. So when I try to line up the pulley/harmonic ballencer, it does not extend out enough through the belt guide to engage the slot on the pulley/balencer.

Anybody with experience with this situation?

OK to back up. It is a 1994 940T. I removed the damper to change the seals and t-belt. I am trying to replace the same damper.

The only thing I can think of in the history of this is a couple of t-belt changes ago, I was not paying attention and put the damper on without getting the lug in the notch. When I started the car, I noticed the damper wobble. I took the damper back off and put the lug in the notch and tightened everything up. But I swear, the last two times I changed the belt, the lug fit into the notch.

Dear Philip,

Good a.m. and may this find you well. It has been a while, since I looked at these parts. Nonetheless, I think it proper to ask, if the crank sprocket is properly/fully seated: is the sprocket as close as possible, to the face of the engine block?

Sometimes, nearly invisible corrosion on the crankshaft surface - or a bit of grit - can keep the sprocket from seating fully. You might want to clean the end of the crankshaft with some very fine (400-Grit or finer sandpaper) or some steel wool. It might also help to lube it with some WD-40. The doing of both of these things, will ensure that the crank sprocket is fully seated. That, in turn, will make it easier to install the harmonic balancer (crank pulley).

I used "white out" to help align the crank pulley, with the "stud" on the crank sprocket. I put a mark on the timing belt case, to indicate the position of the stud. I put another mark on the pulley edge, to show the position of the recess on the pulley. By aligning the marks, I was able to "tap" the pulley along the crankshaft (using a plastic - NOT metal - mallet), and to seat it properly.

Be sure to torque the crank bolt to the spec 60nM / 43 pound-feet, then 60 degree (1/6th turn) angle tighten.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

spook

So I don't need to wory that I can't feel the notch in the pulley engage the stud in the sprocket? I just need to visually align the marks I make?

Thanks

Dear Philip,

No, you do indeed need to ensure the notch of the damper engages the key on the sprocket.

There are two problems that come to mind: the first, Spook alluded to, results from the friction created by a film of rust and the close tolerance between the damper bore and the crankshaft. If you are re-installing the original damper, this is likely to be the only difficulty. Clean both surfaces and apply a light lube, so you can install the damper while turning it back and forth on the crank until the key engages.

The second problem is one I have not personally experienced but has been reported several times on this forum. It is said the aftermarket dampers are not machined correctly where the notch is-- the most common complaint is the special crank holding tool does not fit into the notch, so the tolerances of the notch dimension come into question. I have personally used the aftermarket damper- at about a third the price of the dealer supplied one - and not had that difficulty.

I hope a simple clean and light lube gets it seated for you.

I can move the damper back and forth just fine. However the problem is that the lug does not stick up above the belt guide. With the damper off I can feel that the lug is just flush with the guide and does not extend beyond it.

Thanks

Dear Philip,

You probably should take us back to the beginning of the story. I for one, am assuming more than I like, for instance: You have a B230F in a 940. I don't know, because all you have told me is "900" by forum choice. With a 940, year matters not to me, but it might to someone else.

Also, I am not sure what has changed in the arrangement since it was taken apart, for instance: Did you take it apart? Are the parts the same or have some been changed? Was the reason for taking it apart replacement of the damper, or was this a timing belt service.

Right now, given all those assumptions, all I can imagine that would change the way the gear's key engages the notch is a part is reversed on assembly. How could the key's height change?

My $0.02 worth is that the key probably sheared due to the crank bolt not being tightened properly at a previous service, and it was diagnosed as a failed balancer this time around... That would mean it's time for a crank sprocket. Hard to diagnose based on assumptions, though, as you said.
-Chris
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf

Dear Chris,

Yours sounds like the voice of experience. Once the damper was no longer locked, I would guess the sheared stub would be polished flat again, somewhat masking the broken appearance of the part. A clue might exist on the inside surface of the damper in the form of a shiny groove?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I'd expect there to be a shiny area on the back of the damper where it slipped, and perhaps a groove worn into the t-belt guide plate as it would have remained engaged to the remainder of the key. It's not the voice of my personal experience, but I have heard of it happening before.
-Chris
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf

Now that you mention it, I think I recall a post with pictures where a sheared key was replaced by a pin. Kuba I am certain.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

You should be able to feel it engage when you hold the pulley against the crank and turn it. It it doesn't you have another problem.
steve

I can't feel it engage. The lug does not rise above the belt guide. ???

I experienced something very similar. The lug on the crank gear does not rise very high. After the belt guide is installed, not much sticks out. Enough stuck out for me to engage the crank pulley, but just barely.

At some point, I'll check to see if I have a spare crank gear with a longer lug. If the crank pulley ever walks while the damper is still good, I'll install the other gear.

My experience was with a 93 945T, about two months ago.

Philip Bradley