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so my odometer stopped working. i have a spare brick so i yoinked the gear that commonly breaks out of it. all the teeth are in place, as they should be, because the odometer was working when i took it off the road. i take the gear out of my car, and a tooth is missing. so i'm pretty sure that's the problem. i replace it, and it doesn't work. i checked to make sure i put it in right online, took everything apart again, made sure it was put back together correctly, and still nothing. there were teeth missing so i'm positive that's the problem, but fixing it doesn't work. aye, so many problems. also, my brake lights don't work. when i press the brakes, just the center brake light goes on. tail lights stay the same. when car is off, no tail brake lights, again just center light. no back up lights. they've worked intermittenly before. I WANT TO GET THIS ELECTRICAL JUNK FIXED. it's not good to not have brake lights. i've been using my rear fog lights as manual brake lights which is a bitch. help!
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⏣ 244, 232 K] ⏫ 945, 170 K] ⏣ 245, 315 K (RIP)]
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OK the brakes lights is a simple solution. There is a cicuit in the trunk where the lights are. You have to take that part off. The circuit will be there. It happened to my 244 and that was the fix. Odometer problem. Maybe just go hunting for one in the salvage yard that is close and put it in?
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92 240 2.3 L with a Borla! 104,000 Miles!Http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/774146
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you mean the circuit board? that seems kind of odd..
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⏣ 244, 232 K] ⏫ 945, 170 K] ⏣ 245, 315 K (RIP)]
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One of the common failure modes of the odo gear is a tiny radial crack in
the plastic which relieves the hoop tension around the shaft so the gear
turns but the shaft doesn't. Sometimes the crack is small enough that you
can hardly see it.
If that is the case, you probably need a new gear, although you might make
a provisional repair with Krazy Gloo.
Have you checked your rear lights with a meter? Most of the lighting problems
I have had have been right at the socket - corroded contacts. Note that
Euro cars seem to have electrics made of alloys that develop an invisible
protective shield so that stray electrons cannot get through. A provisional
solution is to scrape the contact until it is shiny.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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George, you're thinking of the mechanical odo's, they have the worm gear and are the ones that develop a crack which releases tension. The 86==> have a different setup.
Off topic but do you have a '75 164 with auto box. I found one in the PNP today and couldn't resist pulling all the goodies including the one year only presure sensor (059) in mint condition, it's the wrong number for my ES but if you need it and have a good 054 I'll trade you.
Cheers
--
Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California
'67 1800s
'73 1800ES
'88-240
my pages
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so, should i just break down and buy one of those gears from www.odometergears.com ?
--
⏣ 244, 232 K] ⏫ 945, 170 K] ⏣ 245, 315 K (RIP)]
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posted by
someone claiming to be Anonymous coward
on
Sat Apr 2 07:36 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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You could take your car to a odometer repair place in south Florida that shall remain nameless. They'll be happy to repair the odometer for $320. No joke; that's the price they quote me over the phone.
I purchased the gear from Odometer Gears LTD a few weeks ago and installed it this morning. The odometer works fine now.
I was able to remove the gauge package and install the new gear in an hour - except for the steering wheel center pad. I wrestled with it for an additional half-hour and couldn't get it seated properly. I finally gave up.
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FL, huh? The company I bought my Inge from mentioned shipping my old odometer out to someplace in NC and they'd repair it for $160, plus s/h; of course, he'd add HIS labor, for which he never quoted that THAT would be. I mentioned my purchasing a replacement gear, and he wouldn't hear of it: I JUST HAD to replace the entire odometer. Well, I got my replacement yesterday (ordered from Odometers.com, thank you to all those who suggested it to me), and if the weather cooperates, I'll be replacing mine.
Question: does any1 know how to repair the trip counter? The button just pulls out ... it went long before my odometer did, so I'd like to take care of them both while I have everything torn apart. Any idears?
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The only love there is ... is the love we make ...
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Dear VioletDC,
Trip reset button broken?
This is an ideal excuse to prowl the yards. You can practice the gear replacement (leave your $30 new one at home) before actually doing the one in your '87. Just drive up Rt. 1 past Rt. 32 in Jessup. Before you get to 175, Crazy Rays is on the right. All the foreign cars are at the rear, across the creek opposite the trucks and vans. They always have a selection of 240s in your year range-- most of them with the cluster already removed from the dash.
You should be able to find a replacement button/lever unless the ebayers beat you to it. Nevertheless, you'll find the trip and the $1 entrance worth it - just to see what these cars have in them.
I think you can, alternatively, buy that part separately from a dealer, but I'm not talking personal experience here-- just repeating something that may indeed be a myth.
Take at least two sizes of small + and - screwdrivers.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Thanks for the tip, Art! Inge is a '92 model, though ... I think because this thread was originally opened by some1 else w/an '87, it stayed. I believe I've been to Crazy Rays before ... I'll remember not 2 wear heels this time ... ;op (it was an impromptu trip w/a fellow bricker who just decided to look for something), since you mentioned the bricks being waaayyy in the rear of the yard (sorta off to the right?). I like your idea of practicing on one of those, so I'll do just that and I'll remember my tools.
Thanks again,
Inge's Mom
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The only love there is ... is the love we make ...
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The question is, why did you have the center pad out?
The cluster comes out just fine behind the steering wheel, with the wheel pointed straight ahead. I've never had any of my steering wheels off...
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Anonymous coward
on
Sat Apr 2 11:18 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Eric's instructions indicate that it's a bit easier if you take the pad out. Unfortunately on my model (87 244 DL) the pad is really difficult to reseat once it has been removed.
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Seems like a lot for what it is but I guess he needs to recoup his investment.
Molds aren't cheap, especially for only a few parts. If he was selling half
a million of them he could probably sell them for less than 25 cents.
I wonder if there is a metal clock gear that would work......
(and not destroy the mating plastic worm gear)
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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