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AutoRx and ester oil

Please, someone tell me the difference between using AutoRx and putting some ester oil in engine oil, say Mobil 1. Thank you and forgive my ignorance.








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AutoRx and ester oil

I believe the esters in AutoRx are based on lanolins. For some reason, they do not work well with synthetics, so they recommend one uses dino oil for their "clean and rinse" cycles.

The old Mobil 1 contained esters, but no longer: it's all PAO, at least in the normal version (I don't know about the new extended life product). Esters in the original Mobil 1 of 1980-vintage caused leaky seals.








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AutoRx and ester oil

Hey Riverol, hows that tranny running now, since the problem you had back last year?
With Auto R-X or switching to Mobile 1 syn oil you should be careful when making the change over to syn oil. With either of them you will have a large amount of deposits coming from the crankcase to the filter. You will need to replace the filter a number of times if you are going to just start using mobil 1. If you start by using Auto R-X I personally feel you are getting a better base to make the switch over to synthetic, you have everything cleaned out before making the change.
I lost my oil filter housing back in Dec, trying to 4 wheel it with my sons scout troop. I had changed back some time ago to syn oil, but when I lost all of the oil out of the car and had it toawed home I started out with a new dose of Auto r-x. Drove the car around 2k with new oil and r-x in her and it never started to change color from fresh oil. I'm finishing on the rince cycle now and will be switching back to Mobile 1 5w40.
The syn oil doesn't leave as many deposits in the engine and just keeps it cleaner.
Hope that Helps
Poolman








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AutoRx and ester oil

Hello fellows:

Recently, I put a large container of Techron in the gas tank of my nearly 20 year old 760T and it made for a noticiable improvement despite a lot of preventive maintenance as per 700/900 FAQ and clean golden to brown/gray Bosch platinum spark plug tips. So I thought perhaps I should put ARx in the engine oil although the car has run nothing but Mobil 1 10W-30 with Mann filters for four or five years, again on the recommendation of Steve. Thanks for the recommendation of mineral oil with ARx, I had thought I would put it in with the Mobil 1 in the engine. I do not know how much crud will come out because Mobil 1 twice a year seems to keep the engine clean, as far as I can see. ARx might do wonders for piston rings and other parts I cannot see. Poolman, the AT in the 960 is like new. As far as I can tell, the PNP shorted (due to gray grease I found inside?), AT went into limp mode (fourth gear in Drive and third gear in Low). This overheated the fluid and set the orange arrow flashing during 15 minutes it took me to get home. An ovehaul of the PNP (as per 700/900 FAQ) and repacking with dialectric grease together with a flush with Mobil 1 ATF (again, as per 700/900 FAQ) and an in-line Magnefine filter from Emerging Enterprises saved me $6,000 and at least two months without use of the car. BTW, Darrell at Emerging Enterprises is a NICE guy. PO had put in a brand new Volvo AT from Sweden a month before I bought the car. PO gave me all maintenance and repair receipts from Volvo dealer (around $12,000 in a few months since 50,000 mile warranty had expired). ATF then overheated and set the orange arrow flashing two or three times as soon as I had the car. Volvo dealer exceeded its usual incompetence and thievery. That brought me to Brickboard, Warren Bain, Tom Irwin and Steve Ringlee. As per their advise and 700/900 FAQ, I flushed with Mobil 1 ATF and put in a Volvo ATF cooler. AT ran OK for 15,000 miles until the episode a few months ago, but it feels new again. Best regards to all.








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AutoRx and ester oil

It's good to hear a happy ending, hope things continue to go well.
Poolman







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