Somedays it doesn't pay. I got 240 style oil pressure pickup/gauge and voltmeter and wortkedup a little mount on the top of the outer cowl.

I installed the gauge pickup on a tee under the exhaust manifold, ran 2 wires up to the battery area.

Gauge has 3 terminals;
A. "+" blue/red - connected to battery +.
B. "G" green - connected 1 of the gauge wires.
C. "_|_" black - connected to battery -.

2nd gauge wire to connected to battery +

Didn't work, didn't work, then showed 2.5 bar on gauge. OK, works.
Installed in car, didn't work.
Took out, reset up test. Can't make it work for the life of me now.

All connections redone x times. WTH?
Does this have anything to do with battery voltage being about 14.5 V?

BTW does the pcup get cooked that close to teh exhaust manifold. It's in upright position.

Any one know of a 240 wiring diagram online?

Thanks all.



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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

I'd be interested in finding out how to use one of these
gauges. A very similar gauge is very common in VW cabriolets
which have oil pressure, temp and volt in a pod in front of
the shifter. They just say VDO on them so they're pretty
generic. I still can't find where the oil temp sender hides
but the rest are pretty easy to find.
chris

Thinking again today, I might have to pick up regulated 12v from the alternator in order to make this gauge work. I'll try it tonight.
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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

I put a later style temp sender on an earlier 140 and the resulting
gauge rarely moved -- I think the sender was expecting 10v and got 7v
or something similar.

The sending unit should say what voltage it is expecting.
chris

The 140/160 instrument cluster has a 5.1V regulator (so called voltage stabilizer) and the 240 has a 10V regulator. So the senders will probably be different (resistance) also. I think aftermarket gauges have an in-built regulator, but OEM ones would rely on a regulated supply from the wiring harness. If it gets too much, it will most likely fry the coil in the gauge. Or perhaps your gauge just has a loose wire inside, because it was reading correct for a moment. Sometimes they have a thermal fuse inside the gauge in case it gets too high a voltage and overheats, which you can replace with a piece of wire if you don't care... The old style 140 clock has one, in case the movement got stuck.

I'm way off on this, as per usual.
Apparently one terminal on the sender is for the light, and the other for the gauge.
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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'