All,

I am a long time Volvo owner. Even though they have quirks, I don't even look at other cars. I currently have a 1999 S70 (Standard Tranny) and a 2001 V70 T5. I love them both but am still paying car payments on the V70, T5. I was thinking about getting rid of the T5 to lower my household expenses, that way I only have a house payment. My wife isn't working and staying home with our 2 year old which is the rigth thing to do.

I have seem some nice nice S90s out there with reasonable mileage for 6-8 K.

My questions are:

1. How is the automatic transmission? Reliable, good shift points? (This would be my first automatic ever!

2. How is the reliability?

3. How is it in the snow (Assuming good snow tires)

4. How is the overall drive compared to an S70 or 850?

Thanks in advance for any answers?

I'm buying a 1998 V90 today, so we're kinda int he same boat. It has only 72k miles on it, so I'm looking forward to long life with this car.

By the way, what does PNP stand for? I've seen it used to refer to the transmission.

Thanks,
Eric

If an 'n' of two is any indication, the PNP switch should not as much as an issue as early 960s. I changed the PNP switch twice on my 92 960, so far not once on the 97 V90,
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 115K

PNP is Park Neutral Position sensor. It allows the car to turn over only in Park and Neautral.

Good points to ask, for my 2cents, the 960 models are the best Volvo's ever built. The trannies are strong and with proper maintenance the will last a long while.
The week points to the trannie that I've noticed from watching the Brickboard are. 1 the pnp switch can cause trouble from time to time, mine was replaced at 60k now have 210k and no problems. The radiator has tranny lines going to it for cooling, I have heard of the radiator rupturing and alowwing coolent into the tranny and that is the end of them when that happens.
These trannies like syn fluid, I changed mine over at 160k and it was like a new tranny after doing this, switched to mobile one syn.
The weak point of the engine I think is the timing belt and pullies and tensioner. The belt needs replacing at 70k the tensioner and pullies and water pump, at 140k. If the belt goes the engine goes with it, valves into the top of the pistions and such. Mobile one 5w40 syn motor oil would be a good up grade as well if it is still using dino oil.
The ride and power of these cars will be a delight to you, get ready for the best Volvo you have ever driven, and they are pretty easy to work on, lot easier than the front whell drive models and will out last them as well.
I hope you find a good one that suits you, with proper care the car should last well over 200k maybe 300 or more.
If you buy one get back to us here and let us know how the cars been serviced and maybe we can give a few pointers on what should be updated for making her last you many years to come.
Hope that helps
Poolman

I would second what Poolman had to say. I've owned Volvo's since the 122s from the 60's. The 960's have one of the smoothest and power efficient motors ever built.I have a 92 960 wagon with 180,000 and a 96 960 Wagon with 85,000. The 96 produces more HP and torque at lower RPM but gets worse gas mileage (20-24) than 92 (22-28). The 96 handles fantastic with the rear transverse fiberglass leaf spring (ala' Corvette). Had to replace front antisway bar tie rod ends at 60K however.

Some cars also have rear main seal leakage at about 70-80K like experienced by the Volvo 5cyl. cousin.

Both cars drive me nuts with their electronic W-S-E transmissions. Currently my transmission lights are flashing on my '92 and my wife can't get an inspection sticker because her PNP switch caused her engine light to go on one cold morning. The code was erased a month ago, the engine light has been out but our it still won't pass inspection because the OBD II computer still hasn't rebooted. Our Volvo mechanic tell us we have to drive it at 45mph for extended periods daily to reboot the computer. Almost makes me want to return to my computerless, spartan, noisey, hot but simple to maintain 122s.

I also religiously change the timing belts to avoid the above described catastrophe.

But when their are no lights flashing on the dashboard you can't find a smoother, more powerful, heavier car more economical car on the road. Did I mention my 92 with 180K only uses 1 quart of Mobil 1 for every 10K between changes? Recent compression test showed all cylinders within 7lbs in the 170lb. range.

To answer the winter driving part of the question, this is the 2nd winter I've had it and this year I put on the Blizzak snow tires. The difference was like 4 wheel drive. Minnesota didn't get that much snow this year so I've already got the Falken's back on for summer. Just follow the FAQ recommendations & you can't go wrong. Hope that helps.