Thanks to everyone for their advice. Sorry I haven't replied, it's hard to find time during the week. I did some checks last Sat. Drained the oil, but didn't see/feel any clumps or metal bits. Didn't put a magnet in, but will see if there's anything to pick up in used oil tomorrow. I disconnected hose from block to gauge at firewall & cranked engine. No oil came out of pipe. Removed hose; no blockage. I couldn't get elbow off block. Didn't have right tool handy to get at sender. Elbow won't clear block unless it's off. Pulled the distributor to check oil pump drive, but stupidly forgot to bring a narrow screwdriver to fit in bore. Tomorrow I'll do things right, but expect a rebuild is in order; oil should be coming though that hose. At least I'll have a reason to update oil seals and clean up doghouse.

Pi (3.1415926535...)... you're selling yourself short.

I'd wager to guess its your gauge or sending unit, or the wires connecting the two... If you drove for a couple miles with zero oil pressure though, you did some damage. You'd have to rebuild your engine's bottom end at least I expect. Stick a mechanical gauge in there first and see what it says.

Does the oil sparkle like it should having been run with no pressure? If not, I bet you're OK, and the sounds you hear are because your ears are more sensative because you are listening for the sound of death...


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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC

Please let us know the outcome of this interesting story. I hope it's just the sending unit. There, but for the grace of God, go the rest of us.

With absolutely no oil I think you would have been pretty lucky to make it a mile or two farther - no oil pressure really is one of those 'turn the key off and coast to a halt' sort of things - the engine can really destroy itself in a matter of less than a minute if deprived of oil. So *if* you ran it without oil, chances are that you did damage. If you did, you would see metal flakes and debris when you drain the oil. If you don't see any little metal flakes, I wouldn't worry about it (too much). If you do see metal flakes, game over - just pull the motor and get ready for a complete rebuild.

The tappets aren't directly affected by opil pressure - they are solid and not hydraulic like many newer cars. They are also lube primarily by splashing from the crank, so even if the oil pressure failed they would continue to get splashed and shouldn't experience any accelerated wear (other than perhaps form metal frgments from the disintegrating rod and main bearings!). And last but not least if they did wear anything, the cam lobe tips would be the first to go - and worn cam lobe tips won't make them any looser. So I think the lifter noise is not related - maybe you are just hyper-attentive to the noises it usually makes.

I've replaced an oil pump on a 145E before with the motor in the car - as already mentioned you have to support the motor, unbolt the crossmember, and lower it down about as far as it will go without unhooking all the steering and brake stuff. Leave the trans mount attached. It's a hassle, but slightly less hassle than pulling the entire motor.

Of course, I'd check a second way that you really have no oil pressure. Hook up a temporary mechnical gauge (like a $15 el-cheapo from Wa - Wal - oh I can't say it - err - any low price mass merchandiser) and start it up. Or just pull the valve cover and coil wire, and crank it around for a while and see if you get oil at the rocker shaft.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

Baffles in the pan make this a pretty hard job. If you sure 'nuff don't want
to pull the engine, you will have to drop the front suspension crossmember at
least 6", and since this includes the motor mounts, you will have to suspend
the engine somehow and you will need the car up pretty high to give clearance
for you, the crossmember and the pan.

I would hook up a pressure gauge that you trust to the fitting first and
verify that there is no oil pressure.

Possibilities for loss of oil pressure include an oil pump shaft failure
(IPD sells a little ring that goes around the shaft where the oil pump/distrib
drive shaft fits into it to avoid the shaft splitting), or a blown seal on the
steel tube that goes from the oil pump to the galleries in the block.
By having too strong a spring in my oil pump and thus too much oil pressure
I blew one of these out on my 122 wagon and did this operation, which is about
the same as on an 1800, except you have a lot more stuff hooked up on an 1800ES.
You'll need some sturdy wire to hang the crossmember in the lowered position.

A leaking oil pressure switch/line can also give the indication when there is
still oil pressure, so you need to verify whether or not you do have oil
pressure before you start this rather involved operation.

Sometimes the bolts holding the crossmember are pretty tight and rusty.
You need a very sturdy 3/4" 6-point socket for these and I'd use some
Blaster first, maybe let it soak for a while with occasional jarring with
a hammer and a sturdy drift.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!