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fuel leak/banjo bolt problem 200 1989

posted by scorch on Sun Jan 30 12:18 CST 2005
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I finally was able to muster up the gorilla strength to break my fuel filter's banjo bolts free, but as soon as I put it all back together with the new filter and tried to start it up, the shower of gas showed me that I had kinked the fuel line just forward of the outflow side of the filter, about an inch away from the banjo bolt. There is a little split in the line now right there, and it leaks quite nicely, thank you.

I've never had to install a banjo bolt before, or even splice into a high pressure fuel line. It looks like I'm going to have to do both. How do I deal with the banjo bolt? Should I get a new one and install it, and if so how do I do it? Or should I grab one out of the junkyard with the fuel line attached and splice the fuel line a little bit forward of the banjo bolt? And if that's the best way, how do I splice this kind of fuel line?

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fuel leak/banjo bolt problem 200 1989

posted by mario on Sun Jan 30 14:31 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Sep 26 09:26 CST 2014

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Hello,

I got a new one from FCP:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240fuelpump.htm

Part# 1312297 $25

Hope that helps.

Mario

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fuel leak/banjo bolt problem 200 1989

posted by richink on Sun Jan 30 13:06 CST 2005
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last visit: Wed Dec 22 04:40 CST 2010

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Hello,

Yep, I got a mouthfull of gas the last time I did that one as well.

Ginger application of an impact wrench solved the problem.

I don't expect to change the fuel filter again :)))

--
Happy Bricking!!! - Richard - '87 245 DL , '82 242 GLT - Volvo's are alive and well in Brampton!!!

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fuel leak/banjo bolt problem 200 1989

posted by raidman on Sun Jan 30 12:44 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Apr 4 22:17 CST 2014

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I fixed this on my son's 83 245 by doing the following:
1. take off the whole double banjo bolt and small plastic hose from the FP.
2.VERY carefully cut off the damaged plastic pipe from the barbed banjo nipples.
What you don't want to do is score a line for gas to follow and leak out of the new hose you are about to install.
3.Go to an AUto parts store and ask (look for) FUEL INJECTION hose. Also get the small special clamps for this type of hose (smooth inside, no slots). Take the Banjo fittings so you can get the right ID that fits.
4, make up a banjo to banjo hose the same lenght as the original plastic hose and use the FI clamps to hold it.
5. no problema anymore.
BTW, I got my parts at PepBoys.
Has been working for 2 years now.
buena suerte,
el Raidman

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fuel leak/banjo bolt problem 200 1989

posted by Art Benstein on Sun Jan 30 12:24 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014

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Taking all of your comments as a whole, I believe this replacement part would be the best approach for you. Or are you saying you got the long line that goes to the rail up front...if that's the case, I'd be going to the yard for it-- I heard they were $80+ from a dealer.

Available from several of the sponsors on this site...
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

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fuel leak/banjo bolt problem 200 1989

posted by scorch on Sun Jan 30 16:32 CST 2005
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No, it's not the double thingy that goes from the pump to the filter. It is on the outflow side, at the end of the line that goes up to the engine compartment.

Are you saying I have to replace the whole line instead of just splicing in a banjo bolt somehow?

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fuel line replacement 200 1989

posted by Art Benstein on Mon Jan 31 10:17 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014

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Are you saying I have to replace the whole line instead of just splicing in a banjo bolt somehow?

I haven't ever done this. I recall something of what the line looks like but can't picture there is enough slack for you to just cut it beyond the damage and re-attach the barbed banjo fitting. There are procedures outlined in the Volvo manual for using a heat gun to install those fittings. But without enough length, my approach would be to replace the whole line. That would be easiest with a new part, but certainly I'd try to get one from a car with its underside exposed in the boneyard.

If you poke through the archived posts on this board, you'll find stories about running copper, splicing with neoprene; clamping to the thermoplastic. I haven't tried that so I can't suggest it. I don't think I will try it either, if I'm faced with the same repair to make.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

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fuel line replacement 200 1989

posted by harvey/ga on Mon Jan 31 11:13 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Sep 7 02:46 CST 2007

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i agree that you should replace the whole line. i just modified the line you're talking about, shortened it actually, because I'm using a b23 motor as a power source on a project. it isn't difficult to heat the plastic line and refit it on a banjo bolt.
but - as far as I know - you do have to use heat on the plastic line. the problem with doing a splice (aside from finding a ribbed sleeve to make the splice with) is that you are working with a gas line.
you must clear the line of gas and gas fumes. it's a critical safety issue. it's impossible to do this under the car.
you're better off in terms of reliability anyway if you get a line at a junk yard, take off your old line, which you would have to do anyway to clear it of gas) and replace it with the junkyard line. it's not difficult to take the line off the car.

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