Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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Abrupt no-start/no run 200 1987

Wife's 86 suddenly quit entirely on the way back from taking the kids to school this morning. Engine suddenly quit, car rolled to a stop. She remembers the radio/maybe panel lights on, but not sure. She does say that when she tried to restart it, there were no lights.
It would start/run when jumped w/cable to the starter (solenoid, I assume), but not the battery terminal. When the cables were removed, it quit. This happened while I was at work, so I didn't witness it myself.
There is no response to the key now, as if the battery cables have been disconnected.
Bad ground? What...?
TIA
Mark.
--
`76 242(junk), `83 245DL, 86 245DL, 87 245DL.








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Abrupt no-start/no run 200 1987

Poking around, I found the lead from the battery to the main junction block had severed completely! Looked like it had been patched before. The spade connector had overheated and broken at the cable. Could not find any spade connectors that big, so ended up filing a large copper lug connector down to width and soldering it to the junction block. Turns out the junction block is tinned copper also. The cable was barely long enough and now is stretched under the PS resivoir.
I think I'll have to splice the cable, but for now I think I'll get a hot drink.
--
`76 242(junk), `83 245DL, 86 245DL, 87 245DL.








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Abrupt no-start/no run 200 1987

"It would start/run when jumped w/cable to the starter (solenoid, I assume), but not the battery terminal."
There's a ground cable that runs from the battery to the block. See if that is still connected. (There's also a smaller ground from the firewall to the head.)
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans








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Abrupt no-start/no run 200 1987

Exactly what CanVolvo said.

I've had the battery cable clamp bolts rust up, and had cable clamps themselves snap, and even though you're tightening the nut, it's not clamping the battery post at all. A new battery cable or a new replacement clamp end (those are cheesy) would fix this problem.

Also inspect the fuseholder behind the battery and the junction block. Any corrosion there will cause you problems. Fortunately, the new fuseholders are only $3 at Volvo.

Last but not least, the wiring at the alternator and under the front pulley, is likely to be in poor shape. My '86 had the small red alternator wire and oil sender wire re-routed around the right side of the engine bay- I wish Volvo had done this for all the 240s. Remove the splash pan and see if the wiring is damaged down there. For easier access to the alternator, remove the oil filter.

Good luck!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!








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Abrupt no-start/no run 200 1987

Check the alternator dude. No charge = dead battery = dead car. Also if alt is OK check wiring, particularly the harness under the front of the engine which contains alt. charge wire to battery, field wire and a ground along with electronic ignition system wires etc.







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