|
|
|
Hi All,
So here's my situation. In November I bought a 90 740 gl w/ 127 kms on it from a Preist in Vancouver. Everything seemed great. Drove from Toronto to Manhattan and back over xmas. Ran well. Now I only tend to drive it once during the week then both days on weekends.
This week i went and shovelled it out from under it's blanket and it wouldn't start. Tried persistantly and it will catch but stall. Finally after 5mins of trying it started and ran roughly and there were some odd exhaust fumes. I thought it might be frozen gas line or water in tank but it won't start tonight. Ran the diognostics last night and i got a 3-2-1, 2-2-3, 1-2-1. Where do i begin? Are any of these codes related to each other ie. if system relay/aux. relay/radio suppression is bad will it affect cold start AND idle valve? Would bad plug wires cause this? I have service records to help with the process. I'd greatly appreciate any feedback as it is my only source of transportation other than my frozen feet.
Cheers!
G. Reed
Oh, and any help with parts vendors in Canada would also be much appreciated.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Re: parts vendors in Canada. I live in Ontario, and my favourite parts vendor is in Connecticut!: www.fcpgroton.com
With prices usually below half of what you'd pay here from the dealer, and often made by the same manufacturer, it's a no brainer. It does take about 10 days from the time of order, though. They ship USPS, so you don't get gouged by UPS's $30 brokerage fees.
--
David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near
|
|
-
|
|
|
thanks Dave,
I was comparing their prices last week and they do seem good so long as the items are'nt too heavy (shipping by weight). Who do you use for service in Ontario?
Graeme
|
|
-
|
|
|
I'm probably not the one to ask. I have what is probably a paranoid mistrust of most mechanics. I've been disappointed too many times. I try to do all my maintenance myself, which becomes possible if you buy a few tools and hang out on the Brickboard.
As far as independent Volvo mechanics go, I've used Viking Garage in Etobicoke with reasonable results, and I've heard good things about Swedish Motors near downtown Toronto. My most trusted mechanic right now is Bob at Advanced Automotive near Leslie and Your Mills, but he doesn't specialize in Volvos.
--
David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near
|
|
-
|
|
|
I share your mistrust. I've hear good things about Mario @ autoservice plus on Dovercourt south of Queen. I also heard good things about Swedish Motors but cannot repeat them as they tried very hard to hose me on a safety inspection of my '66 122s. Their prices for parts are consistently higher than Toronto Volvo on Lakeshore. Thanks for your input.
-Graeme
|
|
-
|
|
|
I've been beating my head against the wall also with this problem. It seems to be fairly common to these cars. Mine happened to be a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor (under the third intake runner). It must have failed this week since the car ran fine after a top engine rework last week. There is a good section in the 700-900 FAQs on checking it out.
Hope this Helps,
--
Will Dallas
|
|
-
|
|
|
Will,
it was only -8C today i spent a good chunk of the day under the hood and it seems we share some symptoms. I cleaned the idle air valve and the intake. I concluded that the engine is flooded....to the point where the oil smells of gas. there appeared to be a little extra oil on the valve cover too which indicated that the oil had been thinned to the point where it could vaporize and escape thru the filler cap. the plugs are black too. the battery is quite weak now so it's on the charger. I had different codes today: only a 321(old) and a 122(new). visual inspection of the air temp sensor looked ok. will replace ECT first but how do I rid the oil of gasoline? will it start w/ gas in the oil?
thanks,
Graeme
|
|
-
|
|
|
Change the oil if it is diluted. My problem wasn't with the fuel system so I did not experience the flooding. If you are getting oil blown out on the valve cover, it could be a sign of high crankcase pressure. Check your vacuum ports and scavenging line from the oil trap to make certain it is clear. How many miules are on the engine?
Regards,
|
|
-
|
|
|
sorry, i got confused. i thought you had a bad ect sensor causing flooding. the engine has 130,000kms (78k miles). I am thoroughly frustrated now. I just looked and there is a code 123 for a bad ect sensor so i am thinking this is not the problem. codes are being eliminated as i clean and check connections. the consistant code remaining is 321=bad cold start valve. will this cause flooding or just a lean mixture?
thanks again.
graeme
|
|
-
|
|
|
In the way of an update, I did replace the ect sensor and the car started right up and ran fine for two days. The first ice storm and it shut off while driving. I got it back home and started troubleshooting all over again. Well, at least I think I know that the new ect sensor is good...
Regards,
--
Will Dallas
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Will,
Did you get any error codes when the temp sensor was faulty?
cheers.
Graeme
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be tom108
on
Thu Jan 27 14:21 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
|
|
yrs ago,i used it only occasionally and drove short distances and with the car's original weaker battery,the car sometimes dies and wont start and has tobe jumpstarted.
Then I changed to a stronger 72-monthCanadian Tire Motomaster Group34/78 battery CCA ?700,problem solved.
If you have CAA,ask them to check and change the battery.or you can check the battery/alternator yourself with a voltmeter.It can also be the voltage regulator at the back of alternator too.Easily changed.
|
|
-
|
|
|
At the top of this page, under Features is the 700/900 FAQ. In there, you will be able to find the meanings of your on board diagnostics codes. I believe you have the Rex-Regina engine management system, but you can verify that with info in the FAQ also.
This is probably not your problem, but this was the cause of my no start when cold in my Regina 740: at the very top, front and center of the engine is a siver thing that looks like a little beer keg. It thin black hose coming off the front of it toward you (then curving back and under). This is the fuel pressure regulator. Pull that vacuum hose off it and check if you can see liquid or smell gasoline on it. Mine had liquid gas in the hose which is a sure sign that the regulator is bad. I didn't expect replacing that to also fix my cold start problem, but in my case it did. So check that first just because it's so easy.
I'm sure others will have better info on the more typical causes.
--
Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 147K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '87 245 lost to rust at 225K
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Andy,
do you know if there is a difference between the bosch injection system and the regina system in terms of the fuel pressure regulator? Is this the same part number on both systems? I can see a bosch one on fcpgroton but no regina FPR.
thanks for your input
-graeme
|
|
-
|
|
|
Volvo sells a different part number fuel pressure regulator for Regina. They get $140 for it. I know because I bought one. Only afterwards did I see posts saying that the on for the Bosch LH 2.4 cars works just as well. I believe that and wouldn't spend the big money for the genuine article again.
It was odd, but the replacement I bought from Volvo was considerably smaller than the original, but it does work fine. For that price, it better last forever!
--
Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 147K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '87 245 lost to rust at 225K
|
|
|
|
|
