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I recently acquired this non-turbo wagon with 252k miles in clean condition. Although maintenance records were promised, I never received them. So I'll be changing hoses, belts, etc. to start a baseline for maintenance.
Although the purpose of getting the wagon was to haul my daughter's harp, I can foresee other uses for transporting cargo. Toward that goal, a couple of questions:
1. I'd like to occasionally pull a 5 x 8 foot cargo trailer. Will it be too much of a strain on the drivetrain of the car to tow this trailer? If not, I'll go ahead and install a light-duty trailer hitch to the frame.
2. The car doesn't have a roof rack. What are cost-effective options for installing a roof rack to occasionally haul an extension ladder or a few pieces of lumber?
Thanks again for ideas in input.
Regards,
Robert
By the way, I prefer the way this car drives to my 960 sedan. And it looks to be a lot simpler from a maintenance point of view!
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That size trailer is not a problem for the car's drivetrain, I've been dragging one around for years with my '94 945T. I even pulled a horse trailer once (sans horses). Volvo made a bolt-on hitch receiver that I bought from a local parts place (Voluparts in Atlanta) for a reasonable price (back then). It is at least equivalent to a Class II hitch, I think. Easy bolt-on but you had to cut a hole in the rear plastic valence, not hard. Nice strong hitch that fits both 700 & 900 series wagons.
--
Bob Kraushaar '94 945T, '88 240, '84 242Ti, '88 300 TE, '89 560 SL, '68 Shelby GT-500 KR
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Thule maks a very good roof rack that fits in the rain gutters of our wagons.
It's not cheap though- $158 in the bicycle catalog I have here (www.performancebike.com) They are well built and strong. You can change the spacing too. And take it off when not needed for less drag and an easier to wash roof.
If you get a Volvo rack like on my wagons you would have to drill 8 holes in the roof and take the headliner down for the nuts if you thru bolted it.
cl
--
1988 745t 155k mi, 1995 945 115k mi
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posted by
someone claiming to be fier
on
Thu Jan 27 08:26 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Class 2 hitch will do you. I have bought 'hidden hitch' and installed with confidence (USE a torque wrench! Do not wing it! And put some anti-sieze compound on those threads too.). Definitely a DIY job.
Watch the tounge weight, and trailer weight, as the BRAKING will likely be your biggest concern. So give more room for such activities. Remember to turn the overdrive off when towing a load, and take it easy on acceleration (I know, you have the four banger, but try).
Oh, and WIRING:
I install flat-four harnesses, and unless you get the expensive wiring kit from volvo your trailer wiring will upset the lamp-out indicators. When you hook up the trailer your lamp-out indicator will be on all the time (or if towing in daylight, only when braking). No harm it it really. I don't really mind it. It is a good reminder that you are towing a trailer, as I can hardly see or feel mine when it's behind my 97' 965. I made the mistake of not running the flat four to the outside of the car. Left it and all the slack in the storage pocket in the cargo floor area. Would just toss it out the back when I needed to hook up, and slam the tailgate on the wires and go. Figured the rubber weather stripping would protect the wires. WRONG! Blew a fuse and had to repair the wires. So do the right thing and run it down and out.
The hitch weighs about 75 pounds, plus another 5 for the ball mount and ball. This will send your rear end a bit south. Add trailer tounge weight to that, and you may be looking at a bit of suspension upgrade depending on what you are packing now.
Yakima gutter mout rack is your best bet for top hauling. But I got a cheap pair ($16) on EBAY that have worked just great so far.
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Dear Chucklee,
Good p.m. and hope this finds you well. You're quite right, of course, about the Thule bars. I use them, when moving something on the bolted-on roof rack, that needs extra support up-front.
Installing a permanently mounted (bolt-on) rack, does not require headliner removal (a horrendous job). Factory-installed, permanently-mounted roof racks are attached using rubber "well nuts", which make a strong, lasting, and water-tight seal. Volvo may still sell the kit, that eases roof rack installation.
When one drills through the roof to make the holes, into which the well nuts are inserted, one should use a "stop collar" clamped on the bit, to prevent over-penetration, which could damage the headliner.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Dear Robert,
Good a.m. and may this find you well. I have installed a roof rack on a 940 wagon, that did not come so equipped. It is not hugely hard. It is a little time consuming. I used a roof rack from a 740, because it is slightly longer, and has center supports for the side rails, which I think reinforce it.
I have the Volvo instructions for this procedure, which I can scan and e-mail.
You will need:
(a) well-nuts (these are 1/2" diameter rubber tubes, with thin flanges, that have a brass, threaded insert, into which the mounting screws are turned. Tightening the screws draws the bottom of the well nut up towards the underside of the roof metal, bulging the rubber walls of the well nuts, and so making a water tight seal)
(b) a 1/2" diameter brad point drill bit (brand new). I recommend this drill bit, rather than standard metal cutting bit, because the spurs at the outer edge of the bit score the metal, making a very clean hole (standard metal cutting bits, even brand new, tend to tear the metal, when the outer edges of bit "break through" the metal.
(c) some butyl rubber tape, from which to make "gaskets" around the holes
(d) some primer paint, to coat the edges of the holes, to inhibit rust
(e) an accurate ruler/measuring tape
(f) a roofing square (to make sure the marks for the holes are parallel with the roof edge, and with each other.
I believe Volvo makes a roof rack mounting kit, which will have the wellnuts. You should be able to get a roof rack from a salvage yard. Be sure to take the rubber gaskets, that separate the roof rack feet from the metal surface. You will not be able to remove the well nuts from the donor car. The well nuts should be used.
Unless you live in a warm, sunny climate, this job is best left until "Spring".
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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I'm not sure about aftermarket roof rack options, but I bet you could scavange a used one at the boneyard for not too much.
As far as the trailer, you could haul a trailer that size no problem, check your manual for the tow limit, but off the top of my head, it's like 3700 pounds.
I pull my old 15'heavy fiberlass boat like it's not even there, you might get lucky at the boneyard for a hitch as well, I picked one up for $50, easy install, ( if getting one from a boneyard, check the online hitch sales places and see which years are suppposed to fit, All teh years will bolt up, but some don't sit right on the wrong years, too high or too low )
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '82 Mercedes 300SD
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posted by
someone claiming to be Gil
on
Mon Jan 24 06:15 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Thule racks are great, and expandable if you want to start carrying other things like bicycles,skis or one of those plastic coffins up top. You can get them off of ebay. I got one for my 945 and I saved over 50% buying it used. The parts were in primo shape, and I haven't had any issues with it. It takes 5 minutes to remove/install. I'm not affiliated with THule, but they make one heck of a good product.
-Gil
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