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1.
according to this website: http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html?VolvoRepairManual/200_0_3.htm
fuse slot #5 requires a 16amp fuse and #13 requires an 8amp fuse.
HOWEVER
the fuse cover in my car says that fuse slot #5 requires an 8amp fuse and #13 requires a 16amp fuse. I am currently going with what my fuse cover says. but I am still confuse about this discrepancy.
btw, seeing that the color pic in the website shows the plastic or ceramic color-coded fuses with WHITE=8, RED=16, and BLUE=25, anyone notice that fuse slot #14 has a blue fuse?
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2.
is there any difference between a 25amp fuse with copper metal and another 25amp fuse with silver metal?
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3.
I asked this already, but forgot to add in one more question to it. quick summary: had a 25amp in slot #10 (power windows) when there should have been a 16amp fuse. short-circuited occurred when one of the switches' two ball bearings touched. fuse #10 blew. replaced fuse with proper 16amp fuse in slot #10. all is well; the brown wire connected to slot #10 looks fine. could this short with the wrong fuse (in this case a 25amp) damage or affect any other electrical components or relays not linked to fuse #10?
thank all!
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Circuits through a particular fuse, different accessories and components, and rearranged circuits can vary from year to year -- you never know what model year the website's advice was based on. But the label on the cover of your fuse panel should be correct for your car!
The only caveat is the possibility that the previous owner lost your car's cover and got one from another model year car.
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yeah, I've thought about the possibility that maybe it's not the original fuse panel cover. maybe someone with an '89 model can give me the fuses from their panel cover.
edit to add: just looked at the owner's manual and on page 79, fuse #5 is actually a dummy fuse slot and #10 requires an 8amp fuse. weird because the fuse panel says #10 requires 16amp fuse. I went with the manual and put in an 8amp fuse. any '89 240 owners can tell me what they have in their #10 fuse slot? thanks.
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Here's the fuse panel in my 89 240 automatic.
Note that fuse 13 will give trouble if you've got a broken center console, and heated seats. I lost the turn signals numerous times on an 87 due to the seat heater switches, which were adrift, shorting out in the tunnel.
Good luck with it!

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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!
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thanks for that pic and info, aye! okay, so now I'm going back to change fuse #13 to a RED 16amp fuse per the fuse panel cover and not go with what the manual says, which says an 8amp fuse goes in #13. grrrrrrr.
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Confusion, fear, uncertainty and doubt...
Notice in your photo fuse #6 is the "Main Fuel Pump"
Not in the 89. Not in the 90.
But the fuse panel label still says so. Pull it out if you like- it is connected to nothing- your motor will continue to run.
Just wanted to point out there is no golden authority on this stuff, not label, not owners manual, not Bentley, but in this particular case (fuse 6), the green WDM has the correct info.
However the fuse values on the label are safe; otherwise a recall would have happened.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore Crrrrazy Ray's!
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As with all of Volvo's fuses and designation's, they're to be used as a guide. The pump labels appear in parentheses- this means that not every model used this fuse for this configuration.
I don't know, for instance, what a carbureted model would have for fuses. They would have only a single electric pump, I'm sure. Likewise, many cars don't have cruise control, power mirrors, or seat heaters. So any of the things not found in EVERY Volvo are in parentheses so you can rule out those things when troubleshooting.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!
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To confirm Jessie's observation. the factory diagrams AND the fusebox covers for both our 81 and 83 show fuse No. 10 ("Window Lifts") as a 16A. Sounds like Volvo was consistent through the years with that fuse at least.
Fuse No 13 is shown in my books as being for very low-draw stuff (instruments, turn signals, gauges, etc) and is an 8A.
As to the 25A fuse blowing in position 10 - well, not a good thing, but until I saw other signs that this has caused problems, I wouldn't look further.
As for Fuse No. 14, it is listed as "Spare" in my books and is 8A. It gets 12V to its hot side on a White-Blue wire that comes from the low-beam output of the beam switching relay. (Post-85 cars with a relay on the light switch output may differ). Although the little fusebox diagram shows a White-Blue coming from that fuse (to the word: "Spare"), the detailed wiring diagram shows nothing connected to that fuse output. If that's the case it doesn't matter what's there....or not there.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar 77 MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)
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thanks again, volvodad. I just got back from applying some dielectric grease on some of the fuse slots and replacing some 8amp WHITE fuses with some brand-spanking new ones I got from pep boys earlier. I was out of the 8amp fuses anyway, so I'd thought it would be good to stock up on some.
yeah, thanks for the info on the 25amp fuse blowing in #10. all is well, windows work, looked at brown wire that is connected to fuse slot #10's spade connector and it looks fine. it's just that the more I find out about how bad putting a higer amp fuse to a lower fuse slot is the more concern and paranoid I get. just need that reassurance.
it's weird, for the life of me, I can't understand what makes one amp fuse different from another when they all have about the same metal strips that are look like they are the same in thickness, length, and width. the 8amp and 25amp have a thinner width in the center, but that's about it.
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the "edit to add" part should read:
"just looked at the owner's manual and on page 79, fuse #5 is actually a dummy fuse slot and #13 requires an 8amp fuse. weird because the fuse panel says #13 requires 16amp fuse. I went with the manual and put in an 8amp fuse. any '89 240 owners can tell me what they have in their #13 fuse slot? thanks."
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My 89 manual has 16a for the power windows (#10). My 84s also have a 16amp power window fuse. I suspect you will blow an 8 amp fuse if you try to close all 4 windows at the same time. No big deal though its just a fuse. The only 25 amp fuse listed is for the blower. Make sure you don't have any other 25s in your fuse box. Upfusing is like playing with fire.
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you tell me what's in fuse slot #13? that's what I meant to ask. thanks.
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