XKE or anyone that have replaced the front suspension control arm rear bushing.

XKE has posted the info bellow to replace the bushings, but there is one thing not very clear for me: The part of the oil filter wrench. I am guessing that I fit the filter wrench around the plastic flange and apply pressure, but how do I hold the bushing to be able to apply the pressure and fit it in the control arm at the same time? I may figure this out once I start the job, but I don't want to run into trouble in the middle of the task. Can someone please explain this process a bit more. Thanks

Removal - jack front side to be changed & remove wheel, be sure to use jack stands for safety. Remove two lower ball joint bolts, bushing through bolt & front assembly bolt & nut. Loosen remaining three tie bar bolts to permit removal of lower control arm. Drive screw driver under bushing flange & ply to crack plastic flange away -- this will permit exposure of bushed member for pressing out. Use #3 Pressing disk from SPX Volvo Tool #9995567 or make (this disk has 2.676" OD x 0.473" thick w/ 0.030 chamfers). I used a large vice & steel blocks to permit press-out.

Installation - scrape control arm bushing bore w/ knife followed by sandpaper & steel wool and apply a thin coat of Vaseline. Use metal oil filter wrench that fits Purolator L14459 (PER 4459) filter. This wrench Fits bushing flange nicely and transmits the force required for pressing home w/o cracking plastic flange. Installation of control arm is the opposite of removal above.

Ref. dimensions: Control arm bushing bore = 2.767" ID, Bushing Flange OD = 3.34", Bushing insertion OD = 2.833"

Time: approx. two hours per side
XKE

I am guessing the oil filter wrench is used as a press tool in place of the Volvo designed tool for this purpose.

I had a full set of the Volvo pressing tools but I found that because of rust in the bore of the big diameter bushing the "press out" tool was useless. I ended up just using a cold chisel to break/remove the bushing which has a plastic outer housing. You will need to remove all the rust scale in order to press the new one in. The scale on mine broke free of the control arm's ID by tapping the outside with a hammer. A punch was used to knock off the last of the stuborn stuff. The last step was the sandpaper etc.
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'96 965, 16' wheels, rear 18mm bar & Koni + 204HP cams at 122K. Had '85 745 Turbo Diesel for 200K.

Thanks. It looks doable. The dealer will press the bushings in if I provide the control arms -off- the car, $85. If all come to a stand off with this rubbers, I can buy a press kit or build one for less than the $85.

Remember not to torque the lower control arm bolts all the way until you have loaded the arms with a seperate jack under the control arm or lowered the vehicle back down. Then torque the bolts with the arms are ride height.

DEWFPO
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1998 S90 071,245 and 1995 964 154,100