Hey everybody. I'm relatively new to the Volvo scene, and it's unfortunate that my experience has been so far less than ideal.

I purchased a 1984 242DL with 245,000 miles.

Tried to smog it as a Test only center, and these are my results:

NO (ppm)

Max Ave Meas
15 mph 1136 399 1661

25 mph 966 332 1047


Everything else passed. Do you guys have any economical ways to get my brick to pass? I'm a poor student and dont have much money to spend. It does not have the chrysler injection system (it has the red bosch distributor cap).

Thanks.

Cam
Campbell CA

A few dry gas in the tank won't hurt either. Get the methyl not the isopropyl type, put it in when you fill up for the test. And if I'm not mistaken a bad thermostat can cause problems.

Hi!

Check your exhaust gas recirculation (see details on http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/general/554.html )

Additional suggestions:

http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Volvo_Books/engine10.html (just for 240s)

http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/failveh/failveh.pdf (NOX section)

http://www.sdvsa.org/PassingSmog.htm (for carbs, but some suggestion can apply to injected)

http://www.2carpros.com/topics/smog.htm (you are on good company)

Happy volving,

Joaquin
Rojo 121 Amazon
Lima Peru

it does have crysler just not crysler dist - plug vac line to icu retake test

Can you be a little more specific as to how i go about doing this? i dont know too much about the volvo engines. any pictures would be great!
-Cam

Here is a bit more detail.
You have the Volvo/Chrysler ignition used on 240s from mid '81thru 1988. It's been claimed that the V/C Ignition Control Units's design can cause hi NOx, and that plugging the vacuum line to the ICU can lower NOx production with little effect on normal operation.

I first posted it on 5/21/04 (see original post here. ) At least one person has found that this solved his high NOX problem.

You can see his happy response at success story.

NOTE that he had failed with a new cat, then plugged the ICU vacuum line, put the old cat back on and passed!.

The ICU is down below (and in front of, I think) the windshiel washer tank.
The small diameter plastic vacuum has a rubber elbow at the end, where it connects to a circular metal diaphragm down low on the ICU. Plug the line there with a screw or similar. Maybe something smaller so you can put the elbow back on for that untouched look.

Let us know if you try this.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The rusty looking thing in the lower left is where the hose Lucid describes lurks:

Getting past emissions inspection with a car that is as old as you are will always be a challange, regardless of the make of car.

First, cheapest way to reduce NOx a little is a tank of premium gas.

I don't know how your fuel injection system reacts to fuel oxygenated with alcohol. Alcohol lowers the energy density of the fuel, which would seem like a good thing for lowering NOx, but I fear that the way your fuel injection system reacts to alcohol might be counterproductive.

Any fuel gurus out there??

Check to make sure that your air flap in the air box is closing when the car is warm.

I'm not familiar with your ignition system, but timing that is too advanced will increase NOx, so you might check your base and advanced timing.

You may have carbon buildup in the head and exhaust ports that is affecting the way the car runs. Fuel additives might loosen that up so it can blow out, but not likely.

You might make sure your EGR is working. I don't think that is your problem, because your slow idle NOx is higher than your fast idle NOx, which implies that the EGR is fine.

Last stop - new cat - but you really don't want to go there on your budget.

I work for the emissions testing stations in Wisconsin. Premium Fuel does not help if the car doesnt call for it. EGR is good to check, make sure that it is at peak operating temperature, this is key. The Cat doesnt start working fully until about 900F degrees. I have a jeep that just failed the emissions for NOx (This is very shameful for me seeing i work at the station even though it is my mum's Jeep) and i checked the EGR and everything and it all checked out. I went out and got some of this stuff called 44K it is an additive that you put in the gas. a can runs for about $20 and you put it in a full tank and run it dry, fill up and test. I noticed a significant increase in power as soon as added it(plus put regular fuel in, my mum was putting in premium for some reason).

Sometimes it can be an oxygen sensor, which is usually a pain to get out, but its cheaper than a cat and often will get it pass. I think the Ox sensor goes for about $50.

Last is the Cat.*eeek*

Hope this helps


Joe
--
Blue '89 Volvo 244 DL 5-speed w/ 179k