I have a small #2 arbor press and the Volvo adapters for these bushings as shown in the factory manual. I followed the manual for removing the arm so I could take it to my work area and replace the bushings, again following the manual.

Removing the large diameter rear bushings which have a nylon outer shell is easiest if you just break/cut the bushing's shell and drive it out. (The factory tool was next to useless because of the rust.) Tapping the arm smartly after you get the bushing out, will help break off the inner layer of rust that will probably be against the nylon outer shell's area. I put a layer of "Never-Seeze" on the arm before reinstalling the new one. (Note the orientation features so you get it in the correct position.)

The front smaller bushing came out with my small press OK as there was some of the original assembly greese between the bushing and the arm. If it had been rusty like the rear one it would have taken a large hydraulic press to move it. Again, I used Never-Seeze putting it together.

Be sure to tighten the front bushing's bolt AFTER you have weight on the suspension so you don't leave a lot of strain in the bushing.
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'96 965 with 16' wheels at 121K. Had '85 745 Turbo Diesel for 200K.

There's been a recent thread on this very issue in the last 4 weeks or so. The brickster who did it used no special tools.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=897633

DEWFPO
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1998 S90 071,245 and 1995 964 154,100

I've got to do the same on a 96/960.They say it's not difficult but you need to have access to a press for one of the bushings. The alternative is to purchase an after market control arm with bushings already installed for around $90 a piece. I think that's the route I'm going. My local volvo mechanic is going to frown on it because it's aftermarket, oh well.

Later...

John T.
Lawrenceville, GA
89 740T 180K
96 960 130K