then runs great once it warms up (although it takes a couple of miles). It's in great condiditon with 158K mile on the engine. I'm a little scared as it sounds like its going to throw a rod when I start driving it when cold. The local Volvo mechanic here in Brooklyn, NY said it was a bearing in the middle of the engine and he did not do that kind of work. He also said that older Volvo frequently make that kind of noise with the milage I have on it (which I think is B*ll**!T). Any suggestions from anyone or is there a reputable Volvo mechanic here in the tri-state area that I should take it to?
Thanx for any help
Cobyco

Try Frank's Foreign Auto in Orange (Volvo specialist) or
Artie's Summit Center Garage in Summit. Also Smythe Volvo (dealer)
in Summit is pretty good and still works on 240s, but is expensive.

-b.

Check the gaskets where the exhaust manifold bolts to the engine.
An exhaust leak there will cause a ticking noise under load - when
the engine gets warm, things might expand enough to seal off the
leak.

I had that problem when I first bought my car, and I thought "oh
%$^&, I bought a car with a bad *engine*," only to have my mechanic
tell me about the leak.

-b.

If the engine has ever been overheated, or sometimes when even not, it may have developed a slightly collapsed piston skirt. This is very common on the B230 engines, particularly the turbos. I have several customers with engines that produce a "diesel" like knock when cold, which goes away in a few minutes as the piston heats up and fits the bore more closely. If the engine burns no oil, then the knock is mostly benign. Drive the engine very gently while it is knocking, and you may get many more miles out of it.
If it was a conrod or main bearing, it would get worse very quickly. On the very early B230 it could be the thrust washers on the center main bearing, but as your engine is a later version the thrust washer main was re-designed and gives little trouble.
Don't consider putting diesel fuel in the oil however. Use 10W-30 or when warmer, 15W-40 only.

Thanx for your advice - Any idea of how much it's going to cost if I have to replace the conrod or main bearing? Or what about replacing the piston skirt?

A new set of pistons will fix it, but that will be very expensive. Figure $500.00 just for the pistons and rod bushings. In Canadian dollars I charge around $3500.00 for a complete rebuild. A good (known good) used engine is the cheapest route, but it will be a quest to find a good one. As I mentioned, if it is a crank problem you will know for sure in about 50 miles.
If the noise doesn't get worse over the next few weeks, ignore it and just drive the engine carefully and it should be no problem.

Thanx - that's what I;ll do, just drive it carefully and hope for the best although when I go on a roadtrip, I'm going to be nervous. I appreciate the response.

How cold is cold? Does it do it while idling to warm up engine? Could it be for whatever reason the oil is too viscous for temperature and is not flowing?
Maybe the Oil Pickup is partially blocked or not connected. I saw this in a newer Land Rover Disco, but owner complained of no oil pressure.

Suggest with rag in hand right after start, remove oil filler cap to see if Oil is getting up top or put an Oil Pressure gauge in place of Oil Pressure Sender.

Regardless, the most damage is done to any engine, when cold, initial run after starting and oil is not flowing.

You might spill some diesel into oil, then start.

Try 10W30 Winter and 20W50 or 10W40 Summer.

Good luck

After its been sitting overnight. No it doesn;t seem to do it when the engine is idling, only when its in gear.