Hello Spook; I used electronic cleaner( the type that leaves no residue) and a gentle blast of air from 'canned air' to clean a grimy eBay POS special. It was really nasty.It seems to have worked fine, and is living in the '86 240.
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'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP

Spook I have not done it yet myself but co-work who is pretty reliable I feel claims to have been successful at it with elctronic spray cleaner like what is used on circut boards.

Good Luck Buddy,
Park

Hello Spook,

I feel so informal in your presence. Your introductory approach appears to be the most civilized communication on this forum, very welcome in my opinion.

My first thought has me wondering why you want to clean the AMM. But then, I remember seeing one fairly encrusted in oily blow-by condensate that would fill and overflow all the corrugations in the connecting tube from the throttle body. My other thought was an impression you had a Rex-Regina car...

I suppose on general principle you might want to clean the inside of the oily film after a switch to synthetic, oil trap replacement or other work to deal with the oil vapor grime, and for that I'd say the responses that precede mine are excellent. But I cannot think the two functional elements beside the platinum wire could suffer much from this grime; the thermistor and film resistor are encapsulated.

To clean it for functional improvement, there's no better way I can imagine than heating the wire to incandescent, as is done at every engine shutdown where the rpm has exceeded 3000. You could simulate the signal and do it manually; it is just a high level to that pin. +5 is used, but +12 won't hurt it. It doesn't "burn out" if you bake it for a while, either. But like a self-cleaning cycle in an electric oven, it makes ash of everything on it that is likely to interfere with its thermal conductivity to its surroundings. I suspect the normal programmed cleaning is sufficient, and further baking is not that helpful.

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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Use a spray, but make sure it is "fuel injector cleaner" that is plastic-safe and not carb cleaner which isn't. Do NOT touch the narrow wires. Use a swab to clean out the plastic body, after having removed a screen.

as i understand it the wire heats up...so it should burn itself clean...

the screens can be carefully removed (they are on circlips) and washed thru, i think i used celulose thiners for that...

the rest i would personnly go for alchol and spray gun set on a VERY fine mist and low presure