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I'm in the process of changing the timing belt, water pump, and front engine seals on my 1980 245 DL with an M-46. I've been following info out of the 700/900 FAQ for the most part, since there don't seem to be too many differences between the B-230 set up and my B-21F.
I've looked up a lot of info in the archives, but there are a few bits of info that seem to conflict, and some stuff I haven't found the answers to.
When putting the new water pump gasket on, should I use any gasket sealer? Some have said yes, some have said no.
When replacing the engine seals, what kind of grease should I use? How much is too much?
Is there anything special about the V-belts? I need to replace them, and I'd just as soon get them from a place like Autozone if there isn't anything special about them.
Any other tips for a timing belt first timer?
Thanks as always. This project is slowly, but surly coming along.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as "Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!"
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A few ideas for you:
Front engine seals.
Get an extra cam shaft seal, it is low cost. Do that seal first to learn how. If you (like me) botch up the seal, well - no trip to buy another is needed. BTW it's the same as the intermediate shaft seal.
when picking out the old seals, be extremely careful to not scratch the shaft. A small scratch will make it leak. A scratch can be removed by sanding the shaft with 400 grit emery paper. Takes about 2 hours, DAMHIK.
Grease the seals with whatever grease you have around. I used some old front wheel bearing grease.
Drive belts.
The alternator belts need to be a matched set. Just a pair with the exact same size is NOT a matched set. When the belts are manufactured, they are made like a huge single belt and then cut apart into what we buy. A matched set is a pair that are made adjacent to each other. They will have the same stretching characteristics. That set I buy Volvo only.
Be careful on the six nuts/bolts on the crankshaft pulley. The nuts are of a soft material, easily rounded off. I use a 1/2 inch drive 10mm socket, holding it to be exactly true and square - and give it a single pull to break the nut loose.
When the new a/c belt has been driven 5000 miles or so, it will need tightening, usually subtracting one shim is enough. That means doing the crank pulley "rain dance" again, so remember how you did it this time.
Use your breaker bar to pry the alternator tight while you tighten the adjusting bolt.
With the alternator belts off, it's just a little more work (pull the alternator and its bracket) to install new mounting bushings. Keep the pulleys running true. Takes three (3), one where adjustment bar bolts to the block.
Timing belt
Use "White-out" to mark the edges of the new belt where the stripes across are. Put a dab on the marks behind the cam gear and intermediate gear, too.
Mark the crank drive gear. Make one mark at the spot where it lines up with the mark on the block. Then make another four teeth counterclockwise from the first. Mark the belt, too, four teeth from the double stripe. When the belt is correct, the double stripe is not touching the crank gear - your 4-tooth offset marks will be touching.
Long post, There is more - post again if you need to.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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I have removed the 6 nuts/bolts that hold the old pump on the block, but I can't get the thing to come off. It won't budge even a little bit.
Am I forgetting something here? My Bentley doesn't show anything else that should be holding the pump to the car.
Thanks again.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as "Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!"
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did you remove the bolt/nut that holds the heater pipe to the pump?
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'73 142, '75 242, '75 245, '80 245, '83 244, '86 244, '87 745T, 92 244 (for sale)
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That was it.
I had undone the nut on the back side, but I didn't slide the bolt out.
Thanks again.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as "Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!"
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For sealer, use Permatex Hylomar HPF - just a wee bit.
It will hold the gasket in place, just like grease.
It helps seal, like silicone - unlike silicone, it never hardens so you can re-use the gasket over again. Use it on the w/p seals, too.
--
'73 142, '75 242, '75 245, '80 245, '83 244, '86 244, '87 745T, 92 244 (for sale)
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When I did my water pump I did not use any sealer. I coated the gasket with some grease, which helps to hold it in place. Make sure you clean the mating surfaces really good. Use a brush with brass bristles to avoid scratching the block. I have also used a brass brush on my dremel tool as well.
I haven't done seals yet.
Mine is a '93 so the timing belt procedure is a little different.
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